Feel the top hose, when it'* warm and feels softer you can take the radiator cap off, lay a rag over it in case there'* still pressure.

You can remove just the 2 bolts holding the housing on.

You can pull the housing up from the manifold without removing the hose. That metal housing with the two 10mm bolts, is the T-stat housing.

Let the car cool down to where the radiator is warm to the touch. Slowly remove the radiator cap with a rag on top to relieve the system pressure and you should be good to go.

alright so i sucessfully installed the new t-stat as my first performance mod! and let me tell you, it was a mess. i unscrewed the radiator cap one click then i worked on the bolts of the t-stat housing.

After i got the first bolt off the dexcool started leaking everywhere so i quick found a pan after it was all over the garage floor and continued working on the 2nd bolt, after i got it off the t-stat wound not come off. I tried getting the gasket off with a needle nose and finally manage to get it off.

I washed the gasket and put it on the new one and installed it. The housing was still full of orange dexcool i just put the thermostat on top of that.

Now i noticed that i ripped a lil seam into the gasket. Its all still in together and easily went on the new t-stat but there is a tear in it. Will this affect it???

I poured a lil water on the engine over the dexcool and started it up fine. The service engine light is on, but its always been on. I also poured some more decool into the tank.

As long as the rip didn't go all the way threw it should be fine. Just watch it for a few days to make sure it'* not leaking.

You really should get that SES light checked out.

we brought it to a mechanic the check engine light is on and the stability and check tire pressure goes on all the time and my compas never works.

They said it might be something in the steering wheel or its just a sensor thats broken but everything works fine im not sure though, i really should, i just dont want to have to bring it to a dealership.

Just thought i'd jump in and mention the PCM is inside the intake air box (literally inside it), you need to remove the 2 clamps on top that hold the inside cover (Air box is split into 2 sections, vertically), then you can get to the clips that hold it in place. If you get an Intense Fender Well Intake (FWI), they give you a PCM tray that bolts into the stock location, since the intake kit will remove all the intake air box, thus removing your PCM mounting place. Or, find a way to make a custom intake for yourself, and just buy an intense PCM tray