Supercharger coupler procedure - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 03-14-2006, 12:16 AM   #21
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INTENSE and PulleyBoys also sell the coupler, as does rollingperformance.

Nobody will sell you one over the counter.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:14 AM   #22
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How about that stripped out fill plug? Can that just be drilled out and a new one tapped in?
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:21 AM   #23
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It'* on odd thread size. Not sure what it is. A thread repair kit (if you can find one in that size) would be best, as the plug has a seal. Or even a rubber expanding plug rated for temps.

Otherwise, a wrecker nosedrive may be in the future for you. I assume the threads are stripped, not the hex head?

The dealer has replacement plugs. Part number is 24500661. I keep a spare for each car.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:22 AM   #24
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I'll take one to work and try to determine the tread size/pitch.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:22 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
It'* on odd thread size. Not sure what it is. A thread repair kit (if you can find one in that size) would be best, as the plug has a seal. Or even a rubber expanding plug rated for temps.

Otherwise, a wrecker nosedrive may be in the future for you. I assume the threads are stripped, not the hex head?

The dealer has replacement plugs. Part number is 24500661. I keep a spare for each car.
No, the hex head on the plug is stripped. I assume the threads are fine. I just have no way of getting the plug out at this point. I'll use that part number to get a new one.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:25 AM   #26
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I used a larger hex driver (3/8 socket type) and ground a taper the last time I had one do this. Tapped it into place with a small ball peen hammer while a helper turned the hex tool with vice-grips. Came right out.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:47 AM   #27
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How low was the oil? If you look at the fill port, and compare that level to the bearings, you can see how easy it is to run them dry. Particularly the FORWARD bearing closest to the pulley in the nosedrive. How are the bearings?

Does the nosedrive seal look like it'* been leaking? Or did it leak onto the LIM?
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Old 03-14-2006, 10:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
How low was the oil? If you look at the fill port, and compare that level to the bearings, you can see how easy it is to run them dry. Particularly the FORWARD bearing closest to the pulley in the nosedrive. How are the bearings?

Does the nosedrive seal look like it'* been leaking? Or did it leak onto the LIM?
I was able to get out about 3/4 of a cup. The bearings look good. Nothing is dried up.

The LIM looked OK, too. The seal, on the other hand, may have been the culprit. What'* involved to change the seal?
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Old 03-14-2006, 02:03 PM   #29
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I had the machine shop drive the old seal out. They were also able to extract the plug.

Coupler -- Ordered
Seal -- Ordered
Plug -- Ordered
SC Oil -- Ordered

Will be happy soon!
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Old 03-14-2006, 02:49 PM   #30
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Mark, when you press the new seal in, use an additional sealant around it to seal the interface to the nosedrive ID before installing the retainer clip. That way if it leaks, it can ONLY leak between the seal and the input shaft, so you'll not run it as dry.

Be warned that a new seal may leak for a short period of time at the input shaft until it 'breaks in'.
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