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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 11-19-2004, 12:51 PM   #11
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a 93 will be no different when replacing the supercharger coupler
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Old 01-01-2005, 11:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEiGrl92
I know the fuel rail and injectors have to be removed...that'* where I get snagged. Should someone like myself attepmt this or should I keep searching for a mechanic. I don't want to do more harm than good.
The fuel rail should not be bad to get off. Unplug the harness from all the injectors, there should be clips that hold them on. Then remove the mpunting bolts on the rail that secure it to the SC. The injectors have o-rings on them that press fit and snap into place and secure the injectors in. Give the injectors a gentle tug and they should come out one by one. Then the fuel rail is out.

Remember to release fuel pressure at the valve and then remove the fuel lines.


Jay
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Old 01-01-2005, 01:00 PM   #13
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Old topic, Jay
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Old 01-12-2005, 02:27 PM   #14
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It'* really not that hard of job. I didn't have very much mechanical experience at all when i did mine. Just follow the instructions and the pictures, and it should be fairly easy. Just remeber to marke your vacume tubs and stuff to make sure they get back in the right place. I took pics as i was going so i could see how to put it back togather.. good luck.
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Old 01-14-2005, 03:47 PM   #15
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this has already been mentioned but most mechanics dont have a clue when it comes to forced induction... once i had one tell me that i should always have positive boost because my supercharger
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:34 AM   #16
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Bare with me on this one guys, as I know it'* a topic discussed frequently.
The once tolerable "chirping" noise coming from the SC snout at idle has now turned into a horrible clanking noise. It happened this past weekend out of the blue and nearly scared the crap outta me! I thought I threw a rod or something until I noticed that it still only does it at idle. Regardless though....would a bad coupler cause a LOUD clanking noise?? Could it have completely broken into several pieces inside the snout?? I'm not driving my Bonnie at all on account of this.
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Old 02-15-2005, 12:02 PM   #17
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Don't drive it, you may have started to break it, or it already did. Get the coupler and have at it.
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Old 02-15-2005, 08:38 PM   #18
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Im not the most mechanically inclined person in the world yet I still managed to have my SC fuel rail and TB off my car in about 2 hours. Now my Regals a different story replacing the snout in it was like a 4 hr job. I take my time and check check and recheck to make sure everything is on and in correctly before I call the job done.
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:23 AM   #19
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Honestly, I would love to tackle the coupler change myself because I'd like to learn more about my car....but the last time I attempted to fix a car, 3 days later the head gasket blew so I'm just a tad paranoid to do any work myself.
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Old 02-16-2005, 12:22 PM   #20
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Well, I had my car towed to a shop that I deal with on a regular basis. Since, I'm in the car business....I get work done at very reasonable prices!
It wasn't the SC at all......the crank pulley and the belts were bad.
Phew! What a relief!
With that being said....I think I may just go ahead and attemp the coupler change myself, and have my uncle look over my shoulder for some guidance.
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