On my 1994 SSEI,why if I install a supercharger pulley 2.5,I have to change other pulley Can I just use a shorter stap??

simply changing the belt on my 96 seems to have worked fine... but i don't usually womp on the gas at all times.. only to and from work. and so, most people would probably tel you to get the larger tensioner pulley to avoid belt slipping out of place... i understand it'* painless and.. if your car is like mine.. it would mean NOT having to remove the motor mounts to change the belt it was extremly angering... hpe this helps dude.. i'm sure others will add to this

You don't have to remove a mount to change the belts on a Series 1, so let'* get that confusion out of the way.

When dropping pulley sizes:

1. Check your fuel pressure first and make sure it meets factory spec.
2. Scan your car, and expect any KR you find to be worse in hot weather.
3. Get the 3.5" pulley for the tensioner. Tensioners work better on the S1 than the S2 when you go oversize.

my bad.. so he has series one eh? don't mean to get off track.. but do this mean that changing the belt for smaller one on series two is actually better than on series one? or... does belt changing have the same effect in both instances and what makes the differance is the t pulley?

either way.. thank you for clearing that up will... franois you're in good hands here with this guy

gbrl, the S1 responds very well to the oversized tensioner as long as you don't have an underdrive WP pulley, which I assume he doesn't.

The preferred method on a S2 is to change the belt length.

The only time to change the belt on a S1 when pulleying down is if your tension marks don't line up.

The belt routing is totally different on a S1 L67. Nothing runs around the TA mount, and we also drive the WP with our SC belt. Because of the different routing, the S1 has less natural belt-wrap around the SC pulley than the S2. Hence the suggestion for the larger idler to increase that wrap after pulleying down.