Hello, has anyone had to replace their L67 SC nose cone ? I've got a squeeker - 80,000 miles. Just replaced the water pump which was leaking and was hopeing that was also the squeek, but the squeek is still there. Cars is a Olds LSS. I had heard once that there was some wear/failure of bearings in the nose cone, anyone know ?

What year is your LSS?

Fist I need to mention the more obvious. How is the SC oil doing? Is the resivoir still full? It mightalso need a new coupler. I just replaced mine and it helped with a little idle speed whine that it had. The couplers do wear over time. As for the bearings, I haven't heard of anyone here (that I can remember) ever having any problems with the bearings in the SC unit. Chances are you won't need to do the whole nose cone either. Indivudual parts are available.

Oh, almost forgot. Welcome to the club!

Thanks , 1997. I do need to get into that oil for sure. I want to change it. Not sure where, didnt give it a good lookover yet and dont have a manual that has the L67 in it. I see the one 1/2-3/4" black alan or torx plug is that the level ? If so wheres the drain. There is only a small amount of seepage seen at the end of the cone. With belts off and hand spinning I cant really locate any particular noise area. Including all the idler pullys and tensioners. Even tried with a long funnel hoping to locate the sorce of noise but that did not help, it just amplified all the other noises not the higher pitch squeek.

Its one of those darn things I know. It will finally come to light what the problem was at the worst possible time. Like a few hundred miles from home.

I dint have the forsite to get new belts which was dumb. Im wondering if the dexcool that got on them from the waterpump would cause the squeek.

The hex nut is the SC oil. There is no drain plug. If you want to remove the oil and change it you need to suck it out. If the oil level is to the bottom of the hex nut you should be fine.

When the belt was off and you spun the SC around, could you feel any play in it? Such as the nose drive moved 1/4" before you felt the main gears start to turn? That would be the best way to see if your coupler is still good. Play in it is bad but won't kep the car from running.

Fluids on the belts may cause noise. The fluid provides a slight barrier between the blet and the pulley allowing some slipage of the belt. Certain fluids can also deteriorate the ruber in the belts. There cheap enough that it wouldn't hurt to change them too.

You won't find to many manuals that cover the SC unit. About the only one I know of is the GM factory service manual. These are more expensive than your local autoparts store variety but they will tel you everything you need to know about your car.

If you end up needing part numbers or places to get parts just let us know. There are enough of us out here who have already rebuilt these things and are willing to help.

When the coupler goes bad, it makes a rattling sound, but only at Idle speed.

FYI, I thought my supercharger had gone bad when it sounded like it was making a high-pitched noise at idle speed. So I added supercharger oil to the top (I don't think it had ever been done before) and put a new alternator in. It looked like the alternator bearing was shot, but I'll never know if it was the alternator or the supercharger.

Also, make sure the engine is cool before opening the supercharger plug, or you will get sprayed in the face with hot supercharger oil.

OUCH!! :o

I know this is an old post, but I am having this exact problem. My idiot mechanic said that the bearing in the cone is bad and to just get rid of the SC completely. Well, he can bite my butt. This LOUD squeaking is definitely in the cone area and it does at idle and while driving. It'* continuous until I shut the car off. Now, will low SC oil cause this horrendous sqeaking? Or is it something else? Please help, it'* almost embarrassing to dirve my Bonnie.

i suppose (though this might be extreme), you could always *check* your supercharger fluid to see if it'* low...

maybe?

Yup, pull the hex screw and make sure the fluid is up to the threads. Or even change it completely to be safe.

Also, pull the belt off the SC and test to see if there is any play in the coupler. If there is, this would most likely be your culprit.

A coupler won't squeak, but will rattle only at idle. If the bearings are bad, you can tell by spinning the SC by hand like Gordy said, and it'll also let you feel the 'play' in the coupler if any.

You can do a FULL rebuild yourself on the SC for less than $200, and the nosedrive for 100-150. New bearings, seals, coupler, and oil.

It'* VERY easy, and actually alot of fun.

Moving to Forced Induction.