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Old 10-05-2005, 11:41 AM   #1
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Default pulley pulling ugh

I finally received my 3.4 modular pulley system and puller from INTENSE. They are not kidding on needing lots of tork to remove. My first attempt was 2 hrs before work and sure enough I put it back together just would not budge. My second attempt was at 1am last night. After about 2hrs of struggling with the ac line in the way and stripping the small shaft screw it finally popped. Putting on the hub was easy but the stripped screw lead to some challenging moments. Needless to say its on at 3:45am and I am glad I bought the modular system. Way too much mental stress to pull another pulley plus the stock pulley was bent after its removal.

removal tips:
buy the modular system
get the longest wrench possible (use a cheater bar if necessary)
make sure the shaft screw is set deep enough not to strip (like what happened to me)
patience, strength, patience, strength
and have fun doing it!!!!

steve
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Old 10-05-2005, 11:52 AM   #2
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In my experience, when taking off a pulley, the puller'* center shaft stud does not need to be tight with the SC shaft. When installing the hub/pulley it shoiuld be snug to prevent the tool from flexing while the hub/pulley are "pushed" on.

Also, before putting on a pulley/hub, heat it up a little (setting it in the sun or oven). This will help it do on a little smoother as well.
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Old 10-05-2005, 12:04 PM   #3
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Default Re: pulley pulling ugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by earthmover101
the stock pulley was bent after its removal.

Ouch! Did you use a 3-prong puller??
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Old 10-05-2005, 12:16 PM   #4
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The puller I used was from intense racing. Where the plate pressed against the pulley it flatted the flange to the first rib. Just glad it came off and the new one went on.


steve
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Old 10-05-2005, 12:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthmover101
The puller I used was from intense racing. Where the plate pressed against the pulley it flatted the flange to the first rib. Just glad it came off and the new one went on.


steve
Wow.

Good to know. I'll be doing this in the next few months.
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Old 10-05-2005, 03:23 PM   #6
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Do NOT use a 2 or 3 prong puller on a Series 2. Use a dedicated pulley puller.

Do NOT use a 2 prong puller on a Series1. A 3 prong would be ok, though.
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Old 10-05-2005, 03:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Do NOT use a 2 or 3 prong puller on a Series 2. Use a dedicated pulley puller.

Do NOT use a 2 prong puller on a Series1. A 3 prong would be ok, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by earthmover101
The puller I used was from intense racing. Where the plate pressed against the pulley it flatted the flange to the first rib. Just glad it came off and the new one went on.


steve
Bill he had a tough time with an S2, however belives the problem was not having the set screw in the proper position.
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Old 10-05-2005, 03:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Do NOT use a 2 or 3 prong puller on a Series 2. Use a dedicated pulley puller.

Do NOT use a 2 prong puller on a Series1. A 3 prong would be ok, though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by earthmover101
The puller I used was from intense racing. Where the plate pressed against the pulley it flatted the flange to the first rib. Just glad it came off and the new one went on.


steve
Bill he had a tough time with an S2, however belives the problem was not having the set screw in the proper position.
I know. We had the same problems with Chadow427'* car at WCBF this year. I'm just clarifying a point to prevent confusion. And to prevent someone from misunderstanding and trying to pull a S2 with a 3 prong.
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:08 PM   #9
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Does anyone have a picture of the set screw culprit. This seems to be insteresting to a couple of us.
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Old 10-05-2005, 04:10 PM   #10
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Pull the little breather off the end of your SC nosedrive shaft. The threaded hole inside is where it goes.
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