Need all SC rebuilders!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 13
Originally Posted by TelePlayer
I have some information that leads me to think that the gm 1052942 gasket maker is loctite 518, not loctite 510. The main differences I can see is that 510 will seal a gap up to .010" and the max temp is 400 deg F, whereas 518 will seal a .050" gap but is only good to 300 deg F.
Both types should work, from what I can see. Has anyone used the gm part successfully?
This link has some loctite application info:
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo..._DoItRight.pdf
Both types should work, from what I can see. Has anyone used the gm part successfully?
This link has some loctite application info:
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo..._DoItRight.pdf
I'll check my info and see which one I used. I know it was a red tube, red goop.
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
From: Boston Area
I saw a tube of the gm material the other day. It didn't say loctite on it, just gm.
One advantage of the loctite 518 is that they stress it is good for aluminum. So if we don't need to withstand a temperature of over 300 degrees, it may actually be better than the 510 material. And it'* available in what they call a "master gasket kit", which is a 25 ml syringe of 518 and 9 oz of the primer. $21 at mcmaster.com.
I am gearing up for my sc coupling job, that is why I am asking.
One advantage of the loctite 518 is that they stress it is good for aluminum. So if we don't need to withstand a temperature of over 300 degrees, it may actually be better than the 510 material. And it'* available in what they call a "master gasket kit", which is a 25 ml syringe of 518 and 9 oz of the primer. $21 at mcmaster.com.
I am gearing up for my sc coupling job, that is why I am asking.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: NJ
The bearings are indeed 6203C3 and 6204C3 and the seal is 7965 but you can use 7966(no metal backing) or 7967(Viton)
They are the same as the M90 as is the coupler.
You can buy a rebuild kit here www.rollingperformance.com
They are the same as the M90 as is the coupler.
You can buy a rebuild kit here www.rollingperformance.com
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 13
Nice. The link for the rotor bearings (needle bearings) however.....those are only 7 bucks locally here. And there'* over 2,000 of them in a warehouse in the carolinas. They're made by a German company and imported. (no other cross-references that I can find).
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,433
Likes: 2
Which bearings are the ones in the middle plate between the snout and the rotors? I recently noticed my 94 "Floz" ***cough...hack*** -who said that?-*** making quite a bit of noise in that area. Not the coupler or the snout bearings. And are 92 and 94 rotors the same, excluding any teflon, or are the 94'* a bit bigger?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 13
You need the needle bearings for the rotor shafts. Your rotors are fine. You'll need 4. Either www.rollingperformance.com, or that other one just listed today.
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,433
Likes: 2
I know there are needle bearings on the intake end. So there are needle bearings in the other end also. Different part numbers, right? I assume the rotors are fine, I was just thinking about using the center plate and rotors from my old SC, and use my newer snout and housing to reduce my downtime, having to do more of the rebuild with my blower off.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 13
Rotors will lift out with no tools. Bearings are pressed in.
Several techniques have been used to remove them. Hydraulic pressure from a new hole and zerk from the rear, or from a wooden dowel that fits perfectly into the bearing are both ideas that have worked.
Bearings then press back in.
Several techniques have been used to remove them. Hydraulic pressure from a new hole and zerk from the rear, or from a wooden dowel that fits perfectly into the bearing are both ideas that have worked.
Bearings then press back in.