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Old 08-31-2004, 03:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TelePlayer
I have some information that leads me to think that the gm 1052942 gasket maker is loctite 518, not loctite 510. The main differences I can see is that 510 will seal a gap up to .010" and the max temp is 400 deg F, whereas 518 will seal a .050" gap but is only good to 300 deg F.

Both types should work, from what I can see. Has anyone used the gm part successfully?

This link has some loctite application info:

http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo..._DoItRight.pdf
The GM part is Loctite when you buy it. I'll check my info and see which one I used. I know it was a red tube, red goop.
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Old 08-31-2004, 05:04 PM   #22
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I saw a tube of the gm material the other day. It didn't say loctite on it, just gm.

One advantage of the loctite 518 is that they stress it is good for aluminum. So if we don't need to withstand a temperature of over 300 degrees, it may actually be better than the 510 material. And it'* available in what they call a "master gasket kit", which is a 25 ml syringe of 518 and 9 oz of the primer. $21 at mcmaster.com.

I am gearing up for my sc coupling job, that is why I am asking.
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Old 09-05-2004, 06:54 PM   #23
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The bearings are indeed 6203C3 and 6204C3 and the seal is 7965 but you can use 7966(no metal backing) or 7967(Viton)
They are the same as the M90 as is the coupler.
You can buy a rebuild kit here www.rollingperformance.com
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Old 09-05-2004, 08:39 PM   #24
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Nice. The link for the rotor bearings (needle bearings) however.....those are only 7 bucks locally here. And there'* over 2,000 of them in a warehouse in the carolinas. They're made by a German company and imported. (no other cross-references that I can find).
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:11 PM   #25
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Which bearings are the ones in the middle plate between the snout and the rotors? I recently noticed my 94 "Floz" ***cough...hack*** -who said that?-*** making quite a bit of noise in that area. Not the coupler or the snout bearings. And are 92 and 94 rotors the same, excluding any teflon, or are the 94'* a bit bigger?
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:13 AM   #26
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You need the needle bearings for the rotor shafts. Your rotors are fine. You'll need 4. Either www.rollingperformance.com, or that other one just listed today.
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Old 01-26-2005, 12:18 AM   #27
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I know there are needle bearings on the intake end. So there are needle bearings in the other end also. Different part numbers, right? I assume the rotors are fine, I was just thinking about using the center plate and rotors from my old SC, and use my newer snout and housing to reduce my downtime, having to do more of the rebuild with my blower off.
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Old 01-26-2005, 01:06 AM   #28
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Same part number for all 4 shaft ends on the needle bearings. I'm not sure I'd mix old on one end with new on the other though.
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Old 01-26-2005, 10:29 AM   #29
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I'd put new bearings in it first. How are the rotors held in? Pressed in?
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Old 01-26-2005, 01:04 PM   #30
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Rotors will lift out with no tools. Bearings are pressed in.

Several techniques have been used to remove them. Hydraulic pressure from a new hole and zerk from the rear, or from a wooden dowel that fits perfectly into the bearing are both ideas that have worked.

Bearings then press back in.
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