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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 12-27-2003, 02:14 AM   #11
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Follow Up:

Just a quick follow up on the RTM Sealer used on the */C. Got 635 miles on it now and no drip, no runs, no errors.
I'll keep everyone posted

ken
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Old 01-03-2004, 06:44 AM   #12
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Just a question. When your engine would idle with the bad coupler, was it just a rattle, or did it sound like chunging. Did you have any noise under hard acceleration in first gear? thanks
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Old 01-03-2004, 12:41 PM   #13
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Great step-by-step kennlee! Even a dumby like me might be able to follow that.

Just a question, I gather from reading that you had a bad coupler, but why replace it with a ZZP Coupler? Does that one last longer, preform better then the orginial GM part?

Sorry.... I'm a real dumby when it comes to under the hood.
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Old 01-03-2004, 02:34 PM   #14
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Merlin, where else are you going to get one?

And yes, it'* supposed to be a better material. Capable of flexing more, but not wearing out. Think of it as a shock absorber for the rotors under hard accelleration.
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Old 01-03-2004, 02:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Merlin, where else are you going to get one?
<shrugs> dunno.. figured GM parts or something, but I suppose "GM" and all you'd have to by the whole assembly, or close to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
And yes, it'* supposed to be a better material. Capable of flexing more, but not wearing out. Think of it as a shock absorber for the rotors under hard accelleration.
Ok cool... so it is better for your car then the stock one. I know little to nothing about what goes on under the hood... I mean I've learned a lot from the BC, but the more I learn the less I realize I actually know.
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Old 01-03-2004, 02:57 PM   #16
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You're dead right about GM. You can buy either the entire nosedrive or the whole SC. Nothing else.

Those of us that rebuild these things, get parts from all over. Eaton and Magnusson don't sell them, either. Even Floz was using the ZZP coupler before he went out of business. Let'* just say a little bird informed Zoomer where his product was getting smeared.
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Old 01-04-2004, 12:56 AM   #17
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"Wren is right" I'm gonna put that on a bumper sticker one of these days.......

The ZZP Coupler is about the only one out there, I did find some cheap crap on e-Bay for about $25. The ZZP was $36.00, go with the best, it'* only $11.
This is an easy fix, takes about 4 hours and basic hand (Metric) tools.
Good Luck, and just think of the bragging rights "I Rebuilt that Supercharger myself"

ken
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Old 01-04-2004, 01:04 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfedog50
Just a question. When your engine would idle with the bad coupler, was it just a rattle, or did it sound like chunging. Did you have any noise under hard acceleration in first gear? thanks
Rattle/Grinding noise.. the best way to find it is use the "Old Screwdriver in the ear" trick.

Find a real long screwdriver, place the sharp end on the noise cone with the engine running, and then put your ear to the handle end (don't get your hair caught in the belt)
You should be able the hear where the noise coming from. If it coming from the nose cone or snout, it will most likely be the coupler

Hope this helps

ken
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Old 01-04-2004, 02:55 AM   #19
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Ken is right, too. But buy a 10-dollar mechanic'* stethescope. Invaluable. And don't do this without at least a cheap torque wrench.
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Old 01-04-2004, 03:03 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Ken is right, too. But buy a 10-dollar mechanic'* stethescope. Invaluable. And don't do this without at least a cheap torque wrench.
Got one somewere, never can find it when I need it. If I do use it, people think I know what I'm doing. Sticking a screwdriver in my ear like an idot. That way they leave me alone, I mean who would want that Old Idot Neighbor that sticks screwdrivers in his ear working on their car.

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