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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 04-05-2003, 03:25 PM   #21
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I just finished it. :P I started last night and spent 3 hours taking it all apart and about 3 hours cleaning it and putting it together this morning. It probably would have gone faster but it was below freezing out so I was working a little slower than normal.

This whole thing was realtivly easy to do. The previous extent of my mechanics was alts, batterys, wires, brakes, etc.. I am just glad there weren't any extra parts when I was done.

With the new pulley I can definetly feel some boost gain. Once it hit second the car pulls way harder than it ever did before. Spinning the tires at take off is almost too easy now. The only thing that concerns me a little is the oost reading. It still won't peak over 8-9 psi. I'm thinking it is the restrictive factory airbox causing that. I plan on getting a CAI real soon. The needle just jumps up to 8 psi and then starts to slowly fall about 1-2 psi over the remainder of the rmp range. I still notice an overall performance increase but I think my SC is starving for more air. What do you think?
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Old 04-06-2003, 01:29 AM   #22
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I think you have more boost. Your gauge is wrong. You have something disconnected. With my water injection running, I could run mine off the scale. In winter, without the water injection, I can peg at just under 10. I have a slightly modded airbox.

You should be reading AT LEAST the same as you did before the smaller pulley. You have a gauge problem, probably caused by a vacuum leak, but possibly a leaking gasket. Try re-torquing the SC and TB, and double check all the vacuum lines. Sometimes the hard plastic fittings can crack, and you won't even see it. Also check the main vacuum manifold on the SC.
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Old 04-06-2003, 01:46 PM   #23
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I agree with Will...sounds like your leaking...that is if you had more than 8 psi before...if you didn't...maybe your */C rotors are worn???
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Old 04-23-2003, 07:26 PM   #24
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I have 94' ssei SC, just bought 111k. I hear rattle from top of the SC, nearer to the nose cone. It only rattles when ideling in park or louder when it'* in gearnot moving. I've been told SC only come as one unit and you can't buy parts such as barrings etc. Can anyone please tell me what my options are and what parts I would need to fix this and where to get them? I can get a GM SC for $1200.00 brand new with a contact at a dealership. Would this be better?

Thanks.

Ken
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Old 04-23-2003, 07:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenball1
...Can anyone please tell me what my options are and what parts I would need to fix this and where to get them? I can get a GM SC for $1200.00 brand new with a contact at a dealership. Would this be better?

Thanks.

Ken

If it is just the coupler you can do it yourself for less than $100 for the new coupler, gaskets, and sealants. Unless you have something wrong I would do it yourself and just replace the parts needed. You most likely will get no performance advantage from going to a new SC over just a new coupler. The Eaton SC'* will generally outlast every other part of your engine. Just think of all the fun "upgrades" you could get with the other $1100!
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Old 04-23-2003, 10:33 PM   #26
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Sounds like the coupler. Follow Will'* pictures in this thread. You can also replace the whole nose cone. (the dealers will now do that too) The dealer wants $400+labor to do just the nose cone.

Or you can save money and replace the coupler yourself.
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Old 05-01-2003, 11:57 AM   #27
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Default Did you use the HIGH TEMP Grease?

Hi,

Thanks tons for the pics, clears up a few questions that I had.

I plan on replacing the coupler, bearings and seal in my 93. I have all the parts except the yellow O rings and I want to replace the plastic bypass hose while at it.

I was researching this a year ago and found that the rotor shaft bearings use a special synthetic grease by NYE. Reotemp 500 See this link:
http://www.nyeautomotive.com/applica...n-SuperCharger

I was therefore going to skip opening the rotor body.

I believe that the pulleys on the 62 are keyed, right?

Pressing the shaft out and bearings are a small challege without a dedicated press, but I am trying to design a metal cage type thing to use a hydrolic jack to press the bearings off and on.
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Old 05-28-2003, 03:10 PM   #28
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Default Ooops

I replaced my coupler last Sat. and hadn't planed on opening the rotor body. BUT as you know, the bolts that hold the snout on also hold the rotor body to rotor plate, so I pulled them out. They were caked in carbon and varnish build up. I am a bit paranoid about the bearing at the end of the roter shaft as they are supposed to use Rheotemp 500 from NYE. It'* the blue high speed, high temp lube for the needle bearings. I didn't have any and now I wonder how long before the lube fails. Did you use any lube when you put back together? How is it holding up?

I also cracked 2 of the injector caps or whatever those black caps at the outlet end of the injector are that keep the O rings from coming off when you pull them out. can you buy them?

Thanks,
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:06 AM   #29
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What happens if I drive? What is the worsecase scenario?
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:09 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G2SSEi95
What happens if I drive? What is the worsecase scenario?
Well... I had play in mine for a long time (3+ years?) before I finally did it. Mine never caused me any problems except for the occasional whine at idle. You could probably keep driving without anything bad happenening if it isn't too bad. Since yours was bad enough to notice, per your other post, I would be hesitant to drive it any more than nessiccary.
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