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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 08-08-2007, 12:22 PM   #31
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1. See the little valve with the electrical connector, foam filter, and vac line? That'* the BCS (solenoid). It tells the BCA (actuator) when to dump or not. Disconnect the electrical connector and vac line from the BCS, and measure the resistance of the two pins on the BCS. Let us know what it is in ohms.

2. Remove the BCA. After the BCS is off, you can get a 10mm socket on an extension in there to remove the two bolts. You'll have to rotate the BCA around to get it out of the 'keyhole' on the bypass valve arm. Look closely, you'll see what I mean.

Push the actuator in and out. How does it feel? Does it return fully? Squirt some light oil in all ports and spread it on the shaft. Work it back and forth. Put some in the BCS ports also. Let them soak a little, rotating frequently to let the oil saturate the seals and orifices. Did the BCA fully return when you pushed the shaft in? Did you work it back and forth with oil in there to re-wet the seals?

3. While this is off, actuate the bypass valve on the SC by hand. Does it move freely? If not, lubricate that with some light penetrating oil on the front and back of the SC. You may have to oil and excercise it for a few minutes to free it up. We had a member that had to do this yesterday from abrasive debris that occurred from external polishing. He had only 3psi until he did that. Was it free? Or did it bind?

If you do all that, and put it back, and still only get 2psi, start checking for vacuum leaks on all those lines. Spraying carb cleaner on each connection point at idle should help you pinpoint the leak if you have one. Your idle will change if the carb cleaner is sucked in at a leak point.
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Old 08-08-2007, 01:11 PM   #32
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i will try to check that today if i can, or else i will get to it tomorrow cause i am off
also i went to my dads shop and pulled my service engine soon codes
and i got 3 codes
P0134 Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit Open
P0171 Fuel Trim Lean
P1640 Quad Driver Module 1 Error

Im thinking i have a bad o2 sensor
dont think its related to this but just telling you the stuff i find
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Old 08-08-2007, 01:20 PM   #33
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It MAY be related. The PCM may pull boost to protect against the lean condition.

I bet you're getting shitty gas mileage. Let'* lick this Boost issue first.
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Old 08-08-2007, 01:21 PM   #34
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yeah my gas sucks
i also drove the car while hooked up and i dont have kr
that is a good thing
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Old 08-12-2007, 02:25 PM   #35
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Under normal driving, you won't see KR. That is, you SHOULDN'T see KR. Did you really put your foot to the floor when testing? KR tends to happen under load.

You know, there is another possiblity....how is your tensioner?
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Old 08-12-2007, 09:58 PM   #36
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well, i tested everything and oiled it up and i found out that my solonoid is bad
i get voltage to the solonoid but i get no reading from the solonoid.
replacing it on tuesday when i get paid
we shall see on tuesday how it works out
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Old 08-12-2007, 10:28 PM   #37
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You can bypass the solenoid by disconnecting the elbow fitting from the solenoid, and plugging the open end of the fitting. This effectively bypasses the bypass function.


Do that before buying a solenoid, but don't run long-term that way.
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:46 AM   #38
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i have already bypassed it, now when i drive i have my 7-8psi
holy crap is this car faster now
i thought it was fast before
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:46 AM   #39
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Well he does happen to have someone in WI that is close. I have some parts from a 92 SSEI but I am not sure they will work on a 94. I do have the BCA for sure, and may have the BCS. Let me know if you need them.
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:47 AM   #40
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91-95'* are identical with regards to the BCA and BCS.
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