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Old 08-07-2006, 10:09 PM   #1
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Default Leaking Supercharger Oil

First of all... I'd like to say that I am VERY mechincally stupid, so attempting this is kind of scary for me (Thankfully I've got a Dad who understands a little more than I).

I've had some work done to my car lately (The power steering pump went out and was making a mess all over my belts). Anyway, I've been keeping an eye on the supercharger belt because it was slipping off a lot (Due to the power steering pump spraying fluid on it). Anyway, I noticed this last time that supercharger oil was dripping off the snout of my supercharger onto the belt on my water pump. I'm sure it was supercharger oil too. It was COMPLETELY clear and had about the same feeling. I was also looking and it appears that some is below the supercharger on the side of the block (Though this could be from where I spilled some filling it back up). My little brother (I think he is dblack1 on here) used to own the car and said that it leaked a small amount when he drove the car. I've been thinking that I should go ahead and fix this problem now before it gets more out of control. My coupler is also worn so I figured I might as well replace that while I've got the snout off (It is right there). I've been reading and I found:

http://www3.sympatico.ca/aepa/blowerinstall.html

I am aware that this is an M90 supercharger and that I have a M62 supercharger. Does anyone know if I can pull the snout off of my M62 supercharger without having to remove it from the engine? I think I've found the parts that I need here (Though I'm open to suggestions if you know of somewhere better):

http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm

I was also planning on replacing the seal in the snout. Has anyone does this or does anyone have a knowledge of how to do this? Any suggestions or recommendations overall? Thank you!


This is right under the supercharger where it seems there is some supercharger oil


This is the underside of my dirty supercharger. You can see my two finger prints, where I wiped some SC oil off with my fingers (Or what appears to be).


Another shot of my dirty vehicle.
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Old 08-08-2006, 12:05 PM   #2
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First I recommend that you go to the "Forced Induction" section here and read up on some of the threads there. Here'* a link to a sticky there, that should answer a lot of your questions.

The ULTIMATE supercharger guide to upgrades and repairs:


Also a narrow search will reveal lots more info.
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Old 08-08-2006, 12:33 PM   #3
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If there'* no oil leaking from the pulley end of the nosedrive, the seal is probably fine.

You cannot get the nosedrive off an M62 without removing the SC from the engine, but it'* not a bad task.

First question is where are you located? If it'* Oklahoma as I suspect, you may not have a member near enough to help, but it'* not bad, and it'* actually quite fun.

It'* a one-day job at the most, but you'll need a few things:

SC outlet gasket
2 yellow coolant o-rings
Red sealant for the nosedrive (gasket maker)
one bottle of SC oil (get two, always have a spare)
Fuel injector o-ring kit
(buy all the above items from the dealer for about $60)

This might also be a good time to do the lower intake manifold gaskets. It'll only add a couple hours to the job. Also, remove the TB from the SC and use the procedure in Techinfo to clean the TB and MAF sensor at the same time.

The coupler can be purchased from www.zzperformance.com www.intense-racing.com www.rollingperformance.com or www.texasthunderbirds.com and the oil as well unless you get that from the dealer.

It'* straightforward, and there are many more resources and topics on this in Forced Induction. I'll move this topic there for you.
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Old 08-08-2006, 08:25 PM   #4
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I'm located in Wichita, Kansas.

I believe the nosedrive seal is leaking because there was supercharger oil on the bottom of the nosedrive. It was dripping down onto of the engine. Anyway, I wiped it up, and then it started slowly dripping onto the water pump pulley (Which is right below the supercharger pulley). How hard is it to replace the seal in nosedrive? I was planning on replacing my coupler as well (Because I have the rattle at idle).

The supercharger took nearly a full bottle of SC oil a week or two ago when I got my car back from getting the power steering pump replaced (Though it has been a long time before any was added before that). It seemed to sound a little better right after I added the SC oil(This could be a placebo effect though).

Do you think the MAF sensor would benefit cleaning? The supercharger was rebuilt a little less than 2 years ago. Do you have any pictures of the MAF sensor? (To be honest.... I didn't know what it was till I googled it).

Should I get the parts you listed below from my dealer, or should I order them online?
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Old 08-08-2006, 08:53 PM   #5
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The coupler will have to be ordered online, you can try EBAY , or http://www.texasthunderbirds.com/
http://www.rollingperformance.com/
If dealer is near I would get the rest there, wont hurt to clean maf just be gentle and use the proper cleaner also think about throttle body and LIM.
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:32 PM   #6
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Jonathan, I clearly stated above where to get all the parts from, and which to get from the dealer.

As far as the MAF and TB are concerned, this is a PRIME opportunity to do it. Please read the Techinfo article on the subject as I suggested.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=64

Don't overlook this if the SC is coming off the car. It improves drivability, performance, and efficiency. Most of our cars would benefit from this every 50k or so. You'll need a TB gasket if you do it.
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Old 08-12-2006, 03:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Jonathan, I clearly stated above where to get all the parts from, and which to get from the dealer.

As far as the MAF and TB are concerned, this is a PRIME opportunity to do it. Please read the Techinfo article on the subject as I suggested.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=64
Sorry for making you repeat yourself. I'm a little nervous about doing this because this will be the first in-depth repair I've performed myself (And without someone'* experience either). Anyway, I've been reading lots out of the repair manual for the car (It has some pictures too which help a bit). Thank you for your help and patience. I do appreciate it.

I answered my last question about changing the seal in the nosedrive by digging through the site. Now I just have to figure out if the auto parts store rents 3 jaw pullers.
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Old 08-12-2006, 12:29 PM   #8
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Buy a 3-jaw puller at NAPA. It'* less than $20. This won't be the only time in your cars life that you need it.
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Old 08-26-2006, 12:16 AM   #9
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I started the project last week. Finished tonight. I had to replace a ton of vacuum connections because they were dry-rotting. I'm sure I fixed a few vacuum leaks.

She started rough (To be expected though..... She didn't have any fuel to start with). We ran her 5 miles. She performed as expected. When we got her back, she was quite hot (I did romp it 3-4 times). The supercharger would burn you if you left your hand on it. But the temperature gauge never got above 200. She has no more ratlings noises at idle though

I followed the instructions on cleaning the MAF and the rest of the throttle body in techinfo. It makes a lot more sense when you have the part in front of you. The MAF was quite clean, but the IAC had A LOT of carbon buildup on it. I'm keeping an eye on my idle because my dad pushed the end of the IAC in and it wouldn't come back out. I couldn't get the injectors off the fuel rail, so I never changed that o-ring. I also ordered a K&N RX-4750 because:




A little piece of metal was sticking up under it and caused that.... I will definitely be fixing this when the K&N gets here.

Thank you. This forum gave me the information that I needed to get this job done. I don't think I could have done it without you.

Jonathan
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