Ok, once the engine cools off I'm going to try and do it tonight

Thanks Bill!

well, took it out, lubed the hell outta it, and it didn't help at all :?

So, which way does the lifter need to be? resting or up?

It was wierd Bill, right before I talked to you it worked fine, but then it went back to little boost

John, with the BCA off the car, move the bypass valve open and closed. Any binding? If so, oil the ends of the bypass valve shaft and bearings from the outside of the SC case, front and rear, while working it open and closed. Make sure it moves freely.

If the bypass is fine, you may have an internal bleed (vacuum leak) in the BCA, or an external leak. Time to get out the carb cleaner. Use it at idle on each connection and the body of the BCA. If the idle surges when you spray, there'* a leak at that location.

You did the BCS trick, right?

Bill, so I need to get carb cleaner and shoot it into the BCA while it'* on the car? ~****, he'll be gone all day today, going down to cali.; anyone else?~

John, I have never done that "trick" directions? What happens? Would I have my boost back?! :? :?:

It will give you boost back if the BCS is bad or the PCM is dumping it. That way you could rule out a leak or the BCA in general.

Pull off the vacuum elbow between the BCA and BCS and take it for a spin.

ok, and that is the top or bottom tube? Which way should the lever be? Up or Down?

Bottom tube. The lever will be down with the engine not running, up at idle.

Well that fixed the problem! That can't be safe to run like that permenatly though, right? Does this mean that there is just an internal componet of the BCA that is malfunctioning?

BCS, not BCA. A new boost control solenoid is $20 bucks or something. Running without a functioning BCS will either dump way too often (like you're seeing) or it won't and you could blow up when the PCM sees trouble and can't dump boost.