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Old 11-13-2006, 04:44 PM   #1
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Default How do I replace supercharger on 92 Buick Park Ave.

I know this is a Bonneville forum but I haven't found anything out there for Park Avenues.

My dad has a 92' Park Ave. Ultra and the supercharger (I think) is making a lot of clatter. I'm in the process of gathering information and getting ready to order parts.

After reading through a lot of posts on here I pulled the belts and checked for play by turning the supercharger pulley by hand and found that there is some play. I also thought I proved it was the supercharger and not a harmonic balancer by starting the car with the belts off and not hearing any of the noises. Then I put the belts back on and started it to make sure that the belts were on correctly and again there was no noise so I guess I hadn't really proved where the noise was coming from. My dad then told me that it doesn't always make noise when it'* cold.

I also read a few posts about checking the oil level but I couldn't find the plug to check the oil.

Hi, is there a write-up for replacing a Series 1 supercharger. It looks fairly straight forward but I need to know what gotcha'* are involved as well as torquing sequences and torque specs, etc.
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:21 PM   #2
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You may not need to replace your supercharger. Please do this test to determine your problem. Remove your */C belt. take the */C pulley and rotate left and right then up and down. If there is play going left and right you have to change the coupler (very common issue) if you have play going up and down your nose drive bearings are in trouble. Most likely you will have a coupler faliure. You can a purchase a coupler at at several 3800 performance vendors .
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:41 PM   #3
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I tried that and didn't feel much play in the bearings but did in the coupler.

I'm guessing it'* mostly the coupler but I'd like to do it once and have it done. If I were to do the coupler and the bearings went bad in a few months then hed likely figure I didnt know what I was doing and take it to the dealer where they would charge him $3000 to replace it. I figured if I ordered a rebuild from a good company hed likely be set for a few years.
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Old 11-13-2006, 05:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobK
I tried that and didn't feel much play in the bearings but did in the coupler.

I'm guessing it'* mostly the coupler but I'd like to do it once and have it done. If I were to do the coupler and the bearings went bad in a few months then he’d likely figure I didn’t know what I was doing and take it to the dealer where they would charge him $3000 to replace it. I figured if I ordered a rebuild from a good company he’d likely be set for a few years.
You can get a rebuilt nose drive or the whole thing at http://www.canadiansupercharger.com/index.html . They are recommended by the supercharger junkies of the forum.
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:40 PM   #5
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For a first-timer, a coupler swap should only take about 4 hours. And it'll save you hundreds.

Call it $100 in parts and 6 beers total.
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:42 PM   #6
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Thanks, CanadianSuperChargers.com looks like the way to go, I considered PSE.com but couldn't find anybody recommending them.

If I've read the other posts correctly I need to order the super charger + these parts:

12353086 Lower Intake Gasket Kit
24507608 SC Base Gasket
24501671 EGR Valve Gasket
88891743 Coolant By-Pass Fitting
10953472 RTV Sealant
993088 Antifreeze {2L}
992878 Engine Shampoo
88901247 Brake Kleen
24500166 TB Base Gskts
17113544 FI O-Ring Kits
12345982 GM Supercharger oil pt#

A couple of questions on parts - What is engine shampoo? Is the coolant By-pass fitting the metal version of the plastic part in the lower manifold that I've heard should be replaced?
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:47 PM   #7
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Not sure where you got that list, or if the numbers are valid for a Series 1, but you don't need an EGR gasket, you missed the two yellow o-rings for the coolant, and make sure you get the bypass fitting from the DEALER. It will be metal. You shouldn't need coolant either.

I still don't think you're doing the right thing spending that much money on something that should only cost $100, but ultimately, the choice is yours. It won't take any more time to do just the coupler as it would to replace the whole thing.
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:51 PM   #8
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Can we revist the clatter sound.

My first thoughts were harmonic balancer because a supercharger coupler doesn't really clatter, it'* a deeper sound.

Although..I've no experience if a balancer will clatter when cold or just warm.

WillWren and others that have had balancers go.. will they clatter when cold?
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Old 11-13-2006, 07:06 PM   #9
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HB'* CLATTER cold or hot. Badly. Goes away with throttle up.

SC couplers cause rattle. Not CLATTER. Make sense? Both are most apparent at idle.
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Old 11-13-2006, 07:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
I still don't think you're doing the right thing spending that much money on something that should only cost $100, but ultimately, the choice is yours. It won't take any more time to do just the coupler as it would to replace the whole thing.
If it were mine I would go the cheaper route, but my dad'* not a car guy and he believes that nobody can work on cars unless they have all sorts of expensive computers, etc. It'* the first time he'* let me work on one of his vehicles so I want to make to reduce my chances of something going wrong. I figure it would cost around $2500 to have it replaced by the dealer so if I save him $2000 raplacing the entire supercharger vs $2400 just doing the coupler it'* acceptable. He'* even looking at new cars because he thinks it might break down on him and he'* likely to spend way more trading it in on a new car.

Quote:
Not sure where you got that list, or if the numbers are valid for a Series 1,
Got them from another post on these boards : http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...lders&start=20

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My first thoughts were harmonic balancer because a supercharger coupler doesn't really clatter, it'* a deeper sound.
Well, I'm not sure if it'* clatter or rattle. It'* a deeper inconsistant sound (it sounds like hell) but it goes away under throttle. Like I said I thought I had eliminated the HB when it ran quiet without the belts but then it was also quiet when I put the belts back on. Is there a good way to eliminate the possibility of a bad HB causing the noise? I couldn't really tell much by looking from above... not sure how much I could see from below.
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