Guys, I'm bolting on an M62 supercharger on my existing L27, not doing an engine swap.

Why would I need a new wiring harness, transmission, and axles if I'm just bolting on a supercharger? I just need to know what mods I need to do as far as the location of my PS pump and alternator goes (and anything else necessary) to get this supercharger to run. I'm not looking for more than 30HP over what I have now.

You NEED to do the full swap. It'* EASIER.

If you do the bolt on:

1. Your belt paths won't line up. What'* going to turn the SC? L67'* have TWO belts.
2. How are you going to control boost?
3. How much money do you have put away for a new trans and axles? Yours can't take it.
4. How much of a beating are your wristpins going to take, and how long do you think the L27 pistons will last under boost?
5. What are you going to do about your shift points and axle ratio? Your powerband is going to shift dramatically, and you'll be shifting at all the wrong rpm'*.

You're going absolutely the wrong direction with this one. A full swap is FAR easier than what you're attempting, and can cost you less in the long run. Far less trouble down the road also.

L27'* weren't made to handle boost, and they are not the same engine.

Aside from what I already said earlier in this post, and what others have said, you still need to consider this: supercharged engines WILL require more cooling. Thicker radiator, perhaps stronger fans if your grill area is too small. First generation L67s also got oil coolers from the factory. While I ran without a cooler after the rebuild, I did so for budgetary reasons only. Now that I am tearing the car down again (for reasons completely unrelated to the engine), I am including the oil cooling system again, although with an outside cooler instead of a radiator cooler. Your transmission temps will also increase.

If you are looking for more power out of your L27, do stuff that has proven to work. In fact, with the mileage you have on that motor, you should instead invest your money and time freshening it up first, or finding a lower-mileage engine. Even new lifters will restore lost power. But those tips should be reserved for another thread.

These are all the reasons nobody has ever done this. It'* simply impractical, bad practice, and full of problems. It'* EASIER to do a full swap, but even further than that, the cheapest and best alternative by far is to sell your car and buy an SSEi.

I forgot about the fuel cutoff related to the boost control, Don. That'* another BIG issue.

Yup. This makes my SSEi unique in certain ways. It'* a testbed of sorts in this club. I cannot say how well it will hold up, since I have only put maybe 1000 miles on the car since November, because of transmission issues that is being dealt with right now. Once that is done, full-on testing, tuning, and result posting will happen. Honestly, I know it will not last anywhere near the usual 170k lifespan. With proper modding, I expect it to last 50-70k. But that is long enough for me

i have done it.................................... with great results, the blocks are the same, the cam, the heads and thats about it, its not worth doing unless you plan to upgrade every engine component thats different

i only did it because i wanted the car to be #* matching so people can try to figure out what the hell is going on and why the motor is supercharged!!

Got Pics? ^^^^^^^^

Amen to the full swap. You can buy a written off L67 car for 100 bucks and get everything you need from there. That'* what I did. Or spend a bit more and get a series 2 L67 and trans from a Grand Prix or something. I've done that for about 1000 bucks. But then you're into making your own hybrid axles or swapping steering knuckles and a whole lot of other messing around. :?

Why are we digging up a month-old topic that has run it'* course?