Go for wet 1000 grit, or polish with a dremel. There'* a theory floating around that a polished outlet will prevent carbon buildup. Carbon deposits create heat.

Not sure where the theory came from, but rumor has it that the last two superchargers on the Zilla had varying amounts of carbon buildup inversely proportional to the amount of polishing.

1200grit it is!

That'll do, donkey. That'll do.

As did the Purple Dino Motorsports version on a certain series 2. Cleaning will keep the EGR gook flowing nicely and not coagulate inside the charger.

well nose drive is rebuilt... man what a PITA it was!

I also started resanding the outlet. and i painted all the areas that lost three paint Pics soon.

What was such a PITA for you about the nosedrive? Did you attempt it without a press?

yes i had a 10TON press that was 7' tall and 4' wide, but having all the right fitting to make sure i preesed on the right races was a bitch and the this piticular press didnt have the best surface to put the nose on. and getting the shaft back in wasnt very easy at all, it started pushing the bearing that was alfready in the nose out. and i almost screwed up the seal when i didnt notice the center rolling over(not sliding) and the tention sring poped out, so i hade to press it all apart and redo it again but its all back together finally and feels good


Hers the pics on the painted */C took me an hour to tint it to match this well





just to compare here it is before paint

It'* a see-saw effect getting the ND bearings seated simultaneously.

Painting the SC is a bad idea. It'* painted with a coating that is known to help transfer heat. Standard paint finishes are insulative. Not what you want in the fight against KR.

thats whay i painted ONLY the chiped up areas, nothing else at all. and the biggest area that needed paint wasnt on main part, it was ont the areas that protrude off for bolts and what not. but i still keep it as small and thin as possible

it'* good to see my red car going somewhere...