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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 09-05-2004, 01:14 PM   #11
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Im probly going to get rid of the nitrous kit. It took a while but someone finally talked me into it. As for the fuel pump and injectors, I bought those a while back, and i diding really listen to the right people when i did. Ill get rid of the fuel pump, and probly end up seeing if i can rebuild the stock injectors. IM just glad i kept them
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Old 09-05-2004, 01:17 PM   #12
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DrJay is in need of a 255 BADLY. His source is out of action because of the FL hurricane right now. You may do well to contact him. I just saw his car yesterday again, and it'* sad to see it sitting there. Lookin' all thirsty. :(

His pump is failing, and he needs a good pump to support 350+ hp.
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Old 09-05-2004, 06:25 PM   #13
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hehe... I ran into DrJay in yahoo in a chat room... he mentioned that he won't be getting his pump till later this upcoming week

we had an interesting chat about parts swaping for the LG3 HO

and if anyones swapping out there series 1 */c fuel pump lemme know! I wouldn't mind getting ahold of one
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Old 09-05-2004, 08:37 PM   #14
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ahhhh....you've learned the secret from the Doc.

The Series 1 SC fuel pump is the highest output a Bonneville has ever seen, including Series 2.
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Old 09-07-2004, 01:26 PM   #15
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[quote="jachin"]Im probly going to get rid of the nitrous kit. It took a while but someone te]
finally talked me into it. As for the fuel pump and injectors, I bought those a while back, and i diding really listen to the right people when i did. Ill get rid of the fuel pump, and probly end up seeing if i can rebuild the stock injectors. IM just glad i kept them[/quo

Why get rid of it? It os the cheapest HP you going to get. I added the Zex 82021 wet kit on mine, for now I only run the 55shot. I ran an 8.27 1/8th mile ET. I got some 110 race fuel and bumping jets up to 75 and adding slicks to try and break into the 7.90'*
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Old 09-07-2004, 01:36 PM   #16
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It'* not a simple matter of comparing your 3800 to ours. Our cars are much heavier, and the end result is ALOT more stress on the trans off the line. It all depends on what you're willing to do to back that new power up.
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Old 09-07-2004, 08:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
It'* not a simple matter of comparing your 3800 to ours. Our cars are much heavier, and the end result is ALOT more stress on the trans off the line. It all depends on what you're willing to do to back that new power up.
this is one of the reasons I love the NX and jacobs nitrous control systems so much... set the rpm for activation (@ WOT only ofcourse) then set of end rpm of the ramp up .. wanna run a lil more then your 55 shot but don't wanna go all the way to 75?... put in the 75 jet and set the end of the rpm ramp above your Revlimit (the unit has it'* own revlimit cut off for the nitrous kit incase of overrev)

as an example youve got a 75 jet in the nitrous hits @ 3500 RPM at around a 10-15 shot... you set the end ramp @ 7K rpm (depending on how steep you want it to ramp) set the master revlimit on the unit @ 6K rpm (say your engines revlimiter is 6200) ... by the time you hit your normal max rpm @ 6200 rpm you could be around 45 shot... for more at the top end and a steeper ramp... set the top ramp rpm lower
like I said just an example

this is ALOT nicer on your engine internals, your trans.. ect... and for the torquey 3.8/3800 much easier on the tires too

these units also include timing retard on nitrous activation and I think the jacobs also has a low fuel pressure nitrous cut off
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Old 09-07-2004, 10:09 PM   #18
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What scares me the most is puddling. Dr. jay also mentioned something about volumetric efficiency. If having less ve is a factor in puddling, then wouldnt you want to shoot the nitrous when the motor is performing at its top effectiency. Couldnt you also lighten up the valvetrain to increase this efficency, and reduce the chances of puddling? Also i have heard that some of the intake manifolds increase torque and power by incoporating a short plenum/long runner intake design. And that by doing this, you get a little bit of a power boost because when the valve closes, the air that was going in bounces off of the valve, and begins to exit in reverse of the way it came in until it hits the rush of air coming in for the next piston rotation, at which time it reverses direction again and gets a compact loading effect, boosting its velocity and therefore making more power. Now what does this have to do with nitrous? fuel is heavier than nitrous, so when something like this happens, the fuel would go in the chamber first, because its heavier than nitrous, and then it would cut off the nitrous, creating a rich condition, until the valve opens, at which time the excess nitrous would enter the chamber without the intended ammount of fuel and cause a lean condition
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Old 09-07-2004, 10:53 PM   #19
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Good questions. I'm curious about the answers myself. DrJay and Allmachtige......HELP!
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Old 09-08-2004, 02:49 AM   #20
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your pretty bang on with the injecting nitrous @ peak effeicency... that'* why your supposed to only inject @ wot, the issue with air slaming around in the intake... theres so much vaccuum involved were you are concerned.. before the air carrying nitrous and fuel can slam around and puddle it'* been sucked into another port

as for puddling... I think it really depends on your intake design... if you've got small plenum long runner with the plenum up top theres really no place for the fuel to puddle

if your only throwing 75hp max into a 3.8 I highly doubt your gonna have a puddling problemm unless ofcourse you inject too close to the TB or have a problem with your fuel part of your nitrous system

and if your THAT concerned... got get a direct inject/nozzle kit

most of the cars with puddling problems are wide bank carb carbs plenums right beside or very close to the ports
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