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Old 05-01-2004, 06:54 PM   #1
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Default Changing SC coupler on a 92 SSEi.

I have recieved the coupler from zzperformance and have a plan to put it in tomorow, but being a newb in to the whole SC scene I wonder if I will be able to pull through. I have no doubt of taking the SC appart all I have is a funny feeling i will no be able to put it back together. Anyways please tell me if I have to take the alternator out and by doing that i will be taking off the belt, is it hard to put it back on after? Please help!
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Old 05-01-2004, 07:32 PM   #2
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I rebuilt my SC with a ZZP coupler and found it to be surprisingly easy (at least for me). Yeas, you'll need to pull both the belt and the alternator off... along with the fuel rail and a few other pieces. Just beleive me when I say it is easier to pull the whole SC than to just try to pull the nose cone off (many people ask about that and find out it is even harder the hard way ). If you do a search on here there is a thread somewhere where Willwren explains the whole proccess with pics. Very usefull information int it.

Good luck!
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Old 05-03-2004, 12:38 PM   #3
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Did you also get the sealant for the nosepiece? A special anaerobic sealant (loctite 510) is used to seal the mating surface between the nosepiece and the supercharger body.

And if your supercharger'* nose was leaking any oil, now'* the time to replace the oil seal also.

Removing the supercharger and replacing the coupler isn't terribly difficult, just take your time.

I absolutely agree to remove the whole supercharger instead of trying to remove just the nose - removing the accessory bracket on the '92/'93 SSEi is a lot of work, and it has to be moved aside if you want to remove only the nose of the supercharger. On a side note, if you ever need to replace the water pump on a '92/'993 SSEi you have to move the accessory bracket out of the way (or remove it), and that'll take several hours minimum.

Good luck.
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Old 05-03-2004, 07:37 PM   #4
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Now i am scared, so are you suggesting to take thw whole SC off would be better rather then taking off the nose cone?
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Old 05-03-2004, 07:42 PM   #5
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Definitely!! I tried to take the accessory bracket off and gave up after an hour or so. It then only took me about 25 minutes to get the whole supercharger off. DOPE!
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Old 05-03-2004, 07:56 PM   #6
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ALright, how do i get the SC oil out before removing the SC and also how do you put the belt on after you are done?
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Old 05-03-2004, 08:09 PM   #7
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I would just take the super charger out and dump the oil out and use new oil. put the belt on the same way as taking it off, push the tensioner to loosen it and slide it off, same way back on.
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Old 05-04-2004, 10:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valerka
Now i am scared, so are you suggesting to take thw whole SC off would be better rather then taking off the nose cone?
Yep, it'* easier to just take off the whole supercharger. Maybe this isn't the case for the newer supercharged models, but in my experience it is the case on the '92/'93 models.
If you know how to perform your own tuneups, etc., removing the supercharger won't be too difficult for you. Just take your time.

The oil in the nose doesn't have to be drained before the supercharger is removed; the oil in the nose is self-contained. You can remove the drain plug (on the top rear of the nose) with an allen wrench and then use a syringe to siphon it out before you remove the nose from the supercharger body, or you can simply let the oil run out of the mating surface while you're removing the nose from the body. That oil will be very smelly - smells kinda like fish.

Removing and reinstalling the belt involves turning the spring-loaded nut on the belt tensioner pulley clockwise with one hand until there'* enough slack in the belt to remove (or reinstall) it with the other hand and then slowly letting the nut return to its prior at-rest position. This is the easiest part of what you'll need to do.
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Old 05-04-2004, 12:28 PM   #9
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You'll have to double-nut the alternator stud going into the SC.

These are for the M90, but will give you good idea of what to do:

http://www.williamwren.com/bonnevillepics/eaton.bmp
http://www.williamwren.com/bonnevillepics/eaton2.bmp

There are alot of threads with instructions throughout the Forced Induction forum (where I'm moving this one), but here'* one with the pics to get you prepared:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...pic.php?t=2408
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Old 05-28-2004, 01:57 PM   #10
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I have done this, and am having a machine shop put on new bearings as we speak. I am just wondering about gaskets and seals in putting all of this back together. What type of seals and gaskets are needed to be replaced?
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