Changed out the coupler today
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Changed out the coupler today
It only took about 2 hours(not quite as fast as PontiacDad) . This was my first time doing it and had the help of a fellow local GP club member (since he had done a couple of them before). The only thing that really took any time was getting the bolt out thats underneath the snout, otherwise it was easy . The smell was awful, it smelled like a GM line worker had puked in the supercharger when they assembled the car. It looks like alot more work then it actually is.
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First off.... Congratulations on the successful job.
Did you do the coupler because it was bad? Or did you do it for good measure?
Is there any difference in perormance? Just curious, you sound happy, but we wanna hear what improvements you have noticed.
I'm sure there'* tutorials somewhere here, but it would be real nice to see some tutorials with pics.... (for all jobs and mods, not just the coupler)
Did you do the coupler because it was bad? Or did you do it for good measure?
Is there any difference in perormance? Just curious, you sound happy, but we wanna hear what improvements you have noticed.
I'm sure there'* tutorials somewhere here, but it would be real nice to see some tutorials with pics.... (for all jobs and mods, not just the coupler)
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I replaced it because it was making noise. I didn't notice any gains . Heres a quick reference on taking it apart - http://www.rollingperformance.com/snoutrebuild.htm Theres another tutorial , but I couldn't find it, its from a cardomain page .
Basically, this is what I did -
1. disconnect the battery (8mm socket)
2. Take both belts off (just off the alternator & supercharger pulleys). You'll need a 15mm socket , #T50 star socket & 1/2" drive rachet(its easier to use the 1/2" rachet for the tensioners)
3. Take the altenator off. There are 3 bolts on the front (13mm, short & deep well sockets), one is underneath the altenator pulley(it looks like a bracket, but is part of the altenator.
There is a small bolt & nut on the back of the altenator. There is also a plug which needs to be unplugged.
4. Time to drain the */C oil out. Since the person I was working with already had done these numerous times, he had his own tool made up to drain the oil. It was a turkey baster with a long rubber hose attached at the end of it. It took about 3-4 times with the turkey baster to get all the oil out, and be prepared for the stench (puke smell) . I can't remember what size the bolt was for the drain plug,but I used a small allen wrench to get it out.
5. Once drained, you need to take the 10 bolts out that hold the snout on. They are all 10mm . You will need short & deep well 10mm sockets, as well as various extensions (small to large) & a swivel socket. The only PITA is getting the bolt out underneath the snout.
6. Once all the bolts are out, lightly tap on the snout to get it off. Tap in various spots with a rubber mallet. Put a rag or paper towls underneath the snout to catch any excess oil that may be left. When using the mallet, you will notice that it looks like there is a spacer between the snout & supercharger , you don't want that middle section coming out with the snout.
7. With the snout off, just pull the old coupler off . Put a little oil on the insides of all the holes in the new coupler and press it flush against where it mounts on the inside of the snout. I used brake cleaner to clean the inside & outside of the snout. Clean any of the old gasket off.
8. Put a small bead of black RTV gasket sealant around where the gasket was on the snout. Line up the snout with the */C and put it on, while using your hand on the */C pulley to line up the coupler with the pins on the rotor(on the */C) . Put a couple of the bolts back in (I used 2 of the lower ones on the side & a couple of the top ones) and slowly tighten them up so theres no gap inbetween the snout & */C . Once there wasn't any gap, I put all the other bolts back in and tightened them with a torque wrench .
9. With the snout back on & up to spec, put the altenator back on.
10. Put the belts back on & connect the battery. Use the turkey baster again and add the new oil . Put the plug back on and start the car to see if theres any leaks.
Basically, this is what I did -
1. disconnect the battery (8mm socket)
2. Take both belts off (just off the alternator & supercharger pulleys). You'll need a 15mm socket , #T50 star socket & 1/2" drive rachet(its easier to use the 1/2" rachet for the tensioners)
3. Take the altenator off. There are 3 bolts on the front (13mm, short & deep well sockets), one is underneath the altenator pulley(it looks like a bracket, but is part of the altenator.
There is a small bolt & nut on the back of the altenator. There is also a plug which needs to be unplugged.
4. Time to drain the */C oil out. Since the person I was working with already had done these numerous times, he had his own tool made up to drain the oil. It was a turkey baster with a long rubber hose attached at the end of it. It took about 3-4 times with the turkey baster to get all the oil out, and be prepared for the stench (puke smell) . I can't remember what size the bolt was for the drain plug,but I used a small allen wrench to get it out.
5. Once drained, you need to take the 10 bolts out that hold the snout on. They are all 10mm . You will need short & deep well 10mm sockets, as well as various extensions (small to large) & a swivel socket. The only PITA is getting the bolt out underneath the snout.
6. Once all the bolts are out, lightly tap on the snout to get it off. Tap in various spots with a rubber mallet. Put a rag or paper towls underneath the snout to catch any excess oil that may be left. When using the mallet, you will notice that it looks like there is a spacer between the snout & supercharger , you don't want that middle section coming out with the snout.
7. With the snout off, just pull the old coupler off . Put a little oil on the insides of all the holes in the new coupler and press it flush against where it mounts on the inside of the snout. I used brake cleaner to clean the inside & outside of the snout. Clean any of the old gasket off.
8. Put a small bead of black RTV gasket sealant around where the gasket was on the snout. Line up the snout with the */C and put it on, while using your hand on the */C pulley to line up the coupler with the pins on the rotor(on the */C) . Put a couple of the bolts back in (I used 2 of the lower ones on the side & a couple of the top ones) and slowly tighten them up so theres no gap inbetween the snout & */C . Once there wasn't any gap, I put all the other bolts back in and tightened them with a torque wrench .
9. With the snout back on & up to spec, put the altenator back on.
10. Put the belts back on & connect the battery. Use the turkey baster again and add the new oil . Put the plug back on and start the car to see if theres any leaks.
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I wasn't expecting you to write a tutorial right here, right now, but I'm more than happy to see you did it.
I appreciate you going out of your way for the good of the members here. Thanks Scott.
Sam.
I appreciate you going out of your way for the good of the members here. Thanks Scott.
Sam.
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Well done Scott
I found the turkey baster in the past to be a bit slow and sloppy, I use a 4 oz syringe with a 10" length of 1/8" tubing. 3 Quick pulls and I have it all. I also have a clean sc fluid only funnel thats small enough to fit in the orfice, this sure speeds up my twice yearly sc fluid changes
I found the turkey baster in the past to be a bit slow and sloppy, I use a 4 oz syringe with a 10" length of 1/8" tubing. 3 Quick pulls and I have it all. I also have a clean sc fluid only funnel thats small enough to fit in the orfice, this sure speeds up my twice yearly sc fluid changes
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Originally Posted by dbeast420
Thanks......prolly be doing mine soon. Just as a preventative measure.
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Scott I did my coupler the same way as you last summer, grats. But my snout took almost 15 minutes to get off even with all the bolts out. She was on there good!
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