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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 02-03-2006, 06:04 PM   #11
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im not sure about the loss of rotor coating, as far as i understand the teflon coating is mostly there to help eliminate heatsoak on the rotors, and has little affect on performance besides the hot-air related KR that could occur from a hot */c
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toastedoats
im not sure about the loss of rotor coating, as far as i understand the teflon coating is mostly there to help eliminate heatsoak on the rotors, and has little affect on performance besides the hot-air related KR that could occur from a hot */c
when boosty removed his rotor coating during a cleaning he lost a few pounds of boost.
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:28 PM   #13
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What the coating does is tighten the tolerances to make the blower more efficient. It can make the same boost at a lower impeller speed, thereby lowering the temp. If you lose the coating, you have to spin the blower faster to get the same boost, and that will make it hotter.
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Old 02-03-2006, 07:23 PM   #14
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Is your air cleaner filthy? Maybe you sucked in some leaves into the airbox. Maybe there is something stuck to the MAF screen? Lets look at more easy stuff before we spend more money.

Also, back to the */C belt. When I changed my SC pulley to a 3.4" I actually made less boost because the belt was slipping. I put a shorter belt on and it was then putting down more than 10psi at WOT. Check your belt and replace if necessary.

Jay
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:06 PM   #15
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Yeah, maybe a tensioner is weak.
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Old 02-11-2006, 11:12 AM   #16
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Captainmiller,

Is this the Bonnie you just bought ? It might be time to have a word with
the seller.

After looking at the pictures you posted before you bought it, I suggested
that the car did NOT look like it was taken care of. I warned that it might have
issues that might come to haunt you.

But hey, what do I know. I only buy and rebuild these things for a living.

I hope you find the problem so you have yourself a reliable driver.
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Old 02-11-2006, 11:37 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainmiller
Ok, all other problems solved except the low boost. Now, to go over what has been mentioned...

Vaccuum lines - mechanic said he repaired any leaks he found.
MAP Sensor - Causes a bad reading in the gauge, but would this not set off a code?
BCS - He said it "checked out" fine on the reading, however does anyone think replacing it would make a difference even if the old one is supposed to be ok?
Loss of rotor coating - Well, I guess I'm just screwed for that one..

Any */C geek help is much appreciated. This isn't too urgent since the car is completely driveable and the roads are messy...but it will be needed soon.
Check all vac fittings and SC gasket with intake cleaner at idle. If the idle changes, there'* a leak.

Ignore the MAP sensor for now, we'll come back to it if necessary.

SCANTOOL checks of the BCS are subjective at best, and the BCA itself cannot be checked with a scantool. Try this:

See the little vacuum line running from the BCS to the BCA? Pre-formed at about a 60 degree angle? Disconnect it from the ACTUATOR, and plug the end with something, while leaving it attached to the BCS. This prevents the BCS from controlling the actuator'* movement (in effect, possibly preventing the BCS from limiting your boost). Did your boost come back? If so, replace the BCS.

This next part is tricky. With that disconnected, get someone you TRUST in the car. Block all 4 wheels and set the parking brake. Have you trusted helper REV to at least 4k rpms in DRIVE with the other foot on the brake (helper must actually have 2 feet). You watch the actuator from the SIDE of the car to see if you get full travel of motion or not.

Here'* the deal why:
By default, you have no boost. It'* bypassed. When you roll on the throttle in a drive gear (BCS prevents boost in a non-drive gear selection on the shifter), the BCS moves the BCA in the direction of non-bypass, slowly bringing on the boost based on manifold vacuum.

A full function test of the BCA could also be performed by connecting a vacuum hose from the BCA all the way to where the BCS is NORMALLY hooked up. Totally removing it from the equation. I'd have to go out and look at the plumbing to be sure on this one. And it'* cold outside.

I'll have a better description of the controls for you shortly. Work in progress (your timing is impeccable).
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:14 PM   #18
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http://www.williamwren.com/superchargers/index.html

The first link (How they work) is the only one that works so far. I've been working on this for awhile, but all the rest is in the rough. That 'how' page may help explain what your problem may be.
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:36 PM   #19
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That is actually awesome, thanks a bunch for the info. Looks like I have some stuff to try to track this down. It is also really cold here, and I'm quite busy with work/school, but as soon as I have a spare moment I will try the above mentioned.

I will definatly let you guys know how it goes. Thanks again.
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