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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 05-11-2003, 10:50 PM   #11
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the more mods you add and the more HP and torque you make, the more your converter will slip. if you race it, thats a good thing, you can get the rpms higher at launch. an easy analogy, take a 3000 rpm stall converter designed for a small block chevy. and bolt it to a 502 big block chev. it will bolt right up, but your stall speed might be as high as 4000 rpms. thats why when you order a custom converter, they ask your either your torque or what mods you have done to the motor. there are other factors in stall speed too,including car weight, tire size , gear ratio, and final drive ratio.
to me , love the higher stall. with mine , i dont notice it at all now till i get on it.
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Old 05-12-2003, 03:25 PM   #12
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Jeffery, did you use your original MAF, or the 95 MAF?
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Old 05-12-2003, 06:13 PM   #13
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Oh yeah...The bypass works. No more boost dumping!! Yay!!! I wonder if having the lower vacuum post on the solenoid open to atmospheric air pressure changes how quickly or how far the solenoid opens and closes. It works on pressure difference, doesn't it? Without the vacuum, there is a different pressure change.
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Old 05-12-2003, 07:08 PM   #14
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i used the 92 maf sensor. you can use a 95 if you want, but the ZZ PERFORMANCE mini afc calibrator will adjust it to what ever you need. also, you must either loop the hose from the sol. back to the vent on the sol. or just plug it. if you leave it open , then when you hit boost and the sol. turns on to dump it, you will be blowing boost pressure and loosing some.
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Old 05-12-2003, 07:30 PM   #15
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The red hose is the only one you moved, right? I was talking about the bottom stud on the actuator that is now left open.
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Old 05-12-2003, 07:34 PM   #16
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leave the port on the bottom of the actuator open. just plug the hose that goes to it
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Old 05-20-2003, 01:14 AM   #17
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OK, I have read this, but I still don't understand what you actually have to do to do this. I am sorry if I am stupid or whatever, but can you show a picture of exactly what you are doing, or explain it in detail. I am confused. Thank You.
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Old 05-20-2003, 11:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
OK, I have read this, but I still don't understand what you actually have to do to do this. I am sorry if I am stupid or whatever, but can you show a picture of exactly what you are doing, or explain it in detail. I am confused. Thank You.
Don't feel stupid, I asked the same question.
Simply disconnect the hose from the lower port of the boost dump valve and also pull the other end off the boost solenoid valve. Then connect a new hose from the boost solenoid valve port you disconnected back to the vent port on the same device. You can leave the boost dump valve port open. It'* almost too simple.
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Old 05-21-2003, 12:18 AM   #19
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I am not sure exactly what these are. Can you post pictures or something. I am assuming the boost dump valve is the black round thing mounted to the front of the M90, right? But what the hell is the boost selenoid valve? I am VERY familiar with the L67, but I am not at all familiar with these terms. Please help me. I am also suprised that I have never heard anything about this on the ClubGP forum, supposedly GTP'* have this problem too right?

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2000 SSEi:
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2002 40th Anniversary GTP:
2.76" Thrasher Modular Pulley, TEP CAI, TEP Shift Kit, MSD 8.5mm Wires, AC Delco 41-919 Plugs, Drilled 160 Tstat, Intense 1.9 Rockers, Intense Pushrods, Intense LSD, ZZP Motor Mounts, Ceramic Coated TOG Headers, RAT CAT & U-Bend Replacement, Borla Exhaust, ZZP Custom DHP PCM, ZZP Stage 2 Throttle Body,
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Old 05-21-2003, 03:11 AM   #20
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ok , i finally figured out how to post a pic on here lol
hope this explains it all .
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