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Forced Induction All questions and problems regarding Superchargers, Turbos, NOS, ZEX, intercoolers, water injection, etc.

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Old 07-14-2003, 01:57 AM   #11
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Our DIC"* will tell us anything EXCEPT PCM codes.
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Old 07-14-2003, 04:27 PM   #12
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The only display on the Bonnevilles that gives codes is the electronic climate control, and that display only gives electronic climate control codes.
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Old 07-14-2003, 10:07 PM   #13
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i took a look at it and i bet my belt slips (tensioner worn?) anybody have a part # for a tensioner for my car? is there 2?
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Old 07-16-2003, 10:58 PM   #14
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Which part are you thinking is worn? The idler or the tensioner spring? I can get you part numbers, but not until I get home. If you suspect belt slip, I'd suggest the ZZP oversized idler pulley. With my 2.2" pulley, it'* critical for belt wrap.
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Old 07-19-2003, 01:03 AM   #15
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Along the same lines (but in the opposite direction), should the boost be at -10 when idling? I don't think I've ever seen mine lower than -8. Is that normal?
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Old 07-19-2003, 01:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hailey
Along the same lines (but in the opposite direction), should the boost be at -10 when idling? I don't think I've ever seen mine lower than -8. Is that normal?
that'* fine.. when it goes to the + it'* boosting the engine/car.. but in idle and such you don't run boost ( in a sense ). If you got WOT and you're still in the "-" then you have issues than.. I thought the same at first.. thinkin it should always read 0.. but it supposedly when it reads "0" the pressure going into the engine is the same is outdoor air ( vs. N/A cars which has to SUCK the air in ) ..

I"m sure someone can define it a lot better then I can.. but bottom line is its all good an no worries
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Old 07-19-2003, 03:29 AM   #17
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You're on it, Murdock.

When you're at idle, you have no boost. You're reading manifold vacuum, Hailey. Just as if you weren't SC. If you're not all the way down on -10, it just means there are other factors playing in. Idle speed, cold engine, cold outside air, etc. Anywhere in the -8-10 range is fine. Mine is usually around -7 since the smaller pulley was installed.

Under moderate accelleration, you'll be at about 0, as the manifold vacuum slowly 'becomes' compressed air. On a stock SSEi, at WOT, you should be hitting 8-10psi depending on outside air temp and humidity.
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Old 07-19-2003, 10:38 AM   #18
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Thanks for the explanations...I was just wondering.
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Old 07-23-2003, 10:36 AM   #19
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Hey Will, what is belt wrap? I went down below the recommended 2.5 to a 2.4 pulley and am getting 12-14 PSI. I also have the 200 amp alternator which has a slightly smaller pulley. I was interested in getting a larger tensioner pulley but didnt know where to go. ZZP makes them for the series I?
Once my water pump blows up and i replace it, i will have replaced everything that is belt driven within the last 2 months. (with exception to the idler/tensioner)

Alternator- Upgrade
Harmonic Balancer- went bad
supercharger- went bad a year ago- new pulley on new SC a few months ago
and the killer that happened last week-
AC compressor. that cost 859.00!!! 600 just for the part. but DAMN ITS COLD NOW!

Ironically, these things didnt start going bad until i put the smaller SC pulley on.
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Old 07-23-2003, 08:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Under moderate accelleration, you'll be at about 0, as the manifold vacuum slowly 'becomes' compressed air.
Reading up on boost/vacuum I read that at 0, the engine is at 100 percent efficiency . Beyond that, its being force fed by the SC. Most n/a cars run at about 70-80 precent efficiency, so figure -2 or -3 at WOT. At least so I read.
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