If you need a 93 */C i've got one coming into my hands today. It'* got about 30k less miles then yours too, if not more.

I'd have to agree with them, the shaft should not come out. That'* your problem... At high speeds the SHAFT may be slipping...

Will, can you explain a bit how the nose components are constructed and held in place?

Had the same problem.... Idler was near the end of it'* travel causing a loose belt condition. Went to the next shorter belt length... seem to fix the problem..

Steve

Seems to be a totally different problem, although your symptoms may have been similar. This looks like a shot nosedrive.

Unfortunately, I never ripped mine apart that far. The shaft is attached to a round plate with 3 pins to mate with the input side of the coupler. How it'* attached, I don't know, but this wouldn't be the problem. The shaft moving in and out of the nosedrive would cause the pins to move in and out of the coupler, and may be causing damage as they're not bearing on the full inside surface on that side sometimes.

Now what holds the shaft in place? I can gaurantee you that it'* either a pressfit to the bearing or an E-clip somewhere along the shaft. I'd love to have a nosedrive to autopsy for this purpose.

Without getting my hands on Jim'* car, it'* hard to diagnose accurately. Jim, can you shoot video of the shaft moving in and out so we can see? Or put a ruler on the car for reference, and shoot two pics of each limit of travel on the slop?

What I'm thinking, if I understand your description correctly is that the nosedrive probably needs to be replaced, along with the coupler. Your gears should be fine, though. If you do replace it, try www.canadiansupercharger.com if it'* in the budget, otherwise a wrecker unit would do fine with a ZZP coupler. IF this is correct, and my diagnosis is on track, and you replace the nosedrive, I'd LOVE to get my hands on your old one for an autopsy/training/research/documentation piece. It'* obviously shot, so no harm in ripping it apart.

For reference, this is an M90 exploded CAD model:

Well, it only came out about 1/4", if that. I stopped there and got a puller, then tapped it back in. It will not move in and out by hand. I think it came out because the retainer was barely hanging on. I widened it and put it back in, and it fits much tighter now.

BTW, I drove to OKC, spent the weekend there, and drove back just fine.

So, what the hell could it be causing the pulley to be too close to the SC? Any more ideas? Could I be threading the nut on too far?

Shouldn't be possible to overthread. There'* a shoulder that prevents the pulley from being placed incorrectly when the nut on the input shaft is fully torqued. A LOOSE nut would allow the pulley to walk away from the nosedrive, but it takes an internal failure to cause the pulley and the entire input shaft to move the other way.

So it moves IN, or OUT?

Guys I got a 93 M62 (in good condition) in the garage. If it'* easy enough to take apart, i've got some time to do that... Take pix etc.

Is there a pulley on it? See if when you pry between the pulley and the housing with the retainer clip off if it will move out 1/4" or so.

Will, it moved out about a 1/4". I stopped there and went and got the puller. It seems to me that the shaft and coupler will move with that retainer off at least half the distance of the rods holding the coupler. But, I don't know, really, without taking it apart, like you say.

I was thinking about next week, after I get Tam'* car this weekend, pulling the 2.2" and putting the stocker back on and see if it tracks correctly.

Umm the retainer is that nut inside the pulley right? Yeah short of clamping the pulley to a table, i couldn't get it off for the life of me, with a damn long socket wrench. There'* NO PLAY at all in this blower, nothign would budge when i tried prying against the pulley and the nose cone housing.