It'* a 1992 SSei.
Something might have climbed up in the exhaust, nothing smells like roadkill, so I dont know.

Oh yea, there are a few things that are acting up. Oil gauges move around a bit. Sometimes it says 40 then nothing, then It'll come back again. The gas meter is also moves around randomly. It'll say it has lower gas, then come back up later. Theres a low coolant light on the screen(that'* always been there though).

When it starts up it'll stall immediately unless you give a few revs around 3000 RPM, after that it keeps fine.

It also tends to stall if you try to park, as in if you just touch the gas, the RPMs will drop then stall.

I replaced the spark plug, filters...maybe the ignition coil? I don't think I checked that. It might be RPM related b/c it has that stalling problem.

Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.

With the price of a rebuilt SC at $500 including shipping versus $100 for the coupling an gaskets I might be down to how much labor to install the coupler versus installing an entire SC and not worrying if, for some reason, it is not the coupler. Still leaning towards doing the coupler only (since it is noisy at idle only and have plenty of boost) but would like your labor estimates (hours) for both jobs. thanks - appreciate your advice.

dray461208:
A few words of advice - first check the supercharger oil level. If the oil level is low, the oil seal may be bad and it may have already damaged the bearings too. So if you replace only the coupler and oil, the oil will continue to leak and you'll have the same problem again down the road (or worse).

If the oil level is full and you choose to have just the coupler replaced, you still may have a leaking nose oil seal soon after that. I happened to me, and I had to replace the seal several weeks later...and once the supercharger was quiet at idle, I noticed that the water pump was making noise at idle too, so I replaced that and that was no fun at all...but that'* another topic.

If the coupler is worn, it can put extra stress on the nose bearings and the oil seal. By the way, leaking oil seals on these units are common, even when the coupler isn't worn, and if you don't check the oil level regularly, it'll eventually damage the internals. No matter what you choose to do, check the oil level regularly to prevent possible problems.

Note that I did all the work myself, and contrary to what others may say, it wasn't all that easy...I wouldn't want to have to do it again anytime soon. And on the '92/'93, it'* easier to remove the whole supercharger to service the nose than it is to try to just remove the nose. To replace just the nose, the alternator bracket has to come off, and it'* more work to remove that 1 part than it is to remove the whole supercharger!

Good luck.

Where can you get the seals and the TB/supercharger gaskets? Does ZZP have them?

'93 SSEi -
I spoke with my local mechanic and he will either replace the coupler or the whole SC -my choice. Based on possible leaks, etc. and the fact that you said it is easier to remove the entire SC versus the nosecone shouldn't I just spend the $500 for a rebuilt SC and have him do the whole thing?

Can you give me the labor hours for nose cone only (with fighting the alternator bracket) and the whole SC replacement hours?

Also, where can I get all of the gaskets, etc. for either job?

It'* your call. As for me, my other bonnie (the '92 SSE */c) had a rebuilt supercharger on it when I bought it, and within 20,000 miles on the supercharger, the nose oil seal began leaking badly. This supercharger was completely rebuilt by Magnuson, and they probably rebuild these units by the book using only OEM approved parts. So it'* a gamble either way. I replaced the oil seal myself, without removing anything but the pulley and seal...once I figured a way to do it.

If I were you, I'd just replace the coupler, nose oil seal, base gasket, sealant for the nose mounting surface, and supercharger oil. Magnuson Products sells a kit containing everything needed. You can also replace the inner and outer bearings in the nose too; they're common parts available from any bearing vendor, and don't cost much.

I can remove and reinstall the supercharger in less than 1 1/2 hours, and I'm not a professional mechanic.
I would guess that to remove just the nose, replace the parts, reassemble it and reinstall it would take at least 4 hours or more.

That'* good that someone will do the work for you. If you get a rebuilt */C it really should be from a reputable source... There are some out there that are just out to make a buck and peddle a poor rebuild.

Then again, if you rebuild it yourself then you must make sure to use good quality parts.

Don't forget about the option to replace the nosecone.

Here is another check for ya before you start buying parts. I just purchased an 94 SSEi that is in beautiful condition, but it had a knock in it. I did the check the */c as suggested and found no play -I also suspected the coupler. Checked the idlers, and found nothing. Looked below and low and behold, the inertia ring (rubber) on the harmonic balancer was gone. The outer ring of the balancer would rotate freely about 45 degrees back and forth. It only made noise at an idle, once the rpm'* built up a little, the outer ring would stay spinning with the hub and ran "quieter". It ran fair, but the knock sensor was going nuts and retarded the hell out of the timing. Going to a few of the local scrap yards was no luck either, the balancers were gone off of every 3.8 there??? The guys tell me they sell the balancers and coil packs off em as soon as they come in. Said thats really the only things they see go bad on them. I found an excellant company in Texas that has a new (but honestly a high quality re-build) for 75.00 and that included shipping.

www.bishopengine.com

I am thinking that my best option now is to have my mechanic take off the entire supercharger (not just the nosecone) and then while it is off have him do what you said:

"If I were you, I'd just replace the coupler, nose oil seal, base gasket, sealant for the nose mounting surface, and supercharger oil. Magnuson Products sells a kit containing everything needed. You can also replace the inner and outer bearings in the nose too; they're common parts available from any bearing vendor, and don't cost much."


I looked on the Magnuson Products site and saw the nosecone rebuild and SC rebuild but not the parts kit you mentioned. Can you help me with locating this? Should I get the parts from Magnuson and the coupler from ZZP? Also, is replacing the bearing a big job and do you have the part numbers?

I am thinking labor to remove the SC, remove the nose, replace bearings, coupler, nose oil seal, base gasket, and reinstall is 2-3 hours maximum? And I should take the SC off until I make sure that there is play in the pulley?

Take your time. Count on 6 hours. You'll spend about 30 minutes cleaning the SC outlet gasket alone. While you're at it, install a 180° thermostat. Don't forget the fiber outlet housing gasket, and the rubber seal for the thermostat flange.

Eaton and Magnusson will NOT sell you any internal parts. You'll have to get them from a local bearing source. A few here have the part numbers for the seals and bearings.

Buy the coupler from ZZP, and buy the SC outlet gasket and 2 coolant o-rings for the lower intake from the dealer. Also buy the sealant for the nosedrive from them. This would also be a good time to replace the o-rings in the fuel rail (on the injectors). The kit can be purchased from the dealer. You'll have it all apart anyway.

I also strongly suggest you remove your TB and clean it thoroghly (with the MAF sensor removed), and replace the TB gasket. Buy this from the dealer as well. TB'* need to be cleaned about every 50-60k.

Quick question....have you checked for fault codes in the PCM? There'* a procedure in Techinfo that works on cars through the 93 model year.

If you don't have a torque wrench, get one. It'* crucial.