What actually dies in the alternators?
#1
Senior Member
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What actually dies in the alternators?
Is it the bearings in the front, or the rear or what?
Are the same problems associated with the 105A'* as with the 140A'*?
Is any one of these proven more reliable under the same conditions?
See I have a 94 with a 105 and a 95 with the 140 and was thinking a swap was in order but dont want to throw something that will fail in my main daily driver.
Is it possible to easliy rebuild a 140A to make it last longer with soso mechanical knowledge?
Are the same problems associated with the 105A'* as with the 140A'*?
Is any one of these proven more reliable under the same conditions?
See I have a 94 with a 105 and a 95 with the 140 and was thinking a swap was in order but dont want to throw something that will fail in my main daily driver.
Is it possible to easliy rebuild a 140A to make it last longer with soso mechanical knowledge?
#2
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The rear bearing is the typical failure, but the heat from that failure can wipe out the electronics at times too.
I don't think the typical 105 or 140 amp alternators are any different from each other in longevity, but the 140 will hold up better in the SSEi'*, or other models running large amps and demanding audio components.
www.mralternator.com sells beefed up units. Beefed up electronics, and a better design for the bearings. We're running about a dozen of these here, and they all seem to be holding up fine. Some of them after about 2 years.
I'm running one of the 160 amp units. Started life as a 140, beefed up to 160 with better bearings.
I don't think the typical 105 or 140 amp alternators are any different from each other in longevity, but the 140 will hold up better in the SSEi'*, or other models running large amps and demanding audio components.
www.mralternator.com sells beefed up units. Beefed up electronics, and a better design for the bearings. We're running about a dozen of these here, and they all seem to be holding up fine. Some of them after about 2 years.
I'm running one of the 160 amp units. Started life as a 140, beefed up to 160 with better bearings.
#3
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but what happens when the alternator just stops charging? I didn't notice any signs of bearing failure in mine, but then i didn't inspect it either.
#5
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Correct. And the supercharged models are more prone to early failure for 2 reasons. #1 is a higher demand on the alternator because of all the gizmos.....#2 is that the SC engines run hotter, and the Alternator is right above the rear manifold, and trapped behind the SC. On the Series 1, heat is also transferred to a small extent from the nosedrive of the SC directly into the alternator bracket (series 2 doesn't have this setup).
#6
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How ironic that i posted here yesterday. Cause my car is dead today All i wanted to do was let it idle and charge the battery!! I wasn't even going anywhere!!! Why???
#8
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Originally Posted by Hans
How hard is it to rebuild these and where can I get a kit? I really dont want this failing since It will be pulled off a L67.
#9
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Rebuild kits aren't complete. And I wouldn't trust a kit. For me, it'* new or nothing. And when this alternator dies, it'* a new red top to go with it. ALWAYS in pairs, always new.
I compare running used alternators to getting used tires from the wrecker. It'* not good practice. Why get something that'* likely to kill your good battery?
I compare running used alternators to getting used tires from the wrecker. It'* not good practice. Why get something that'* likely to kill your good battery?
#10
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One reason I got my 140 amp is because it'* built for a larger load. I figure a performance rebuilt 105 will not outlast the larger beefier 140. Rebuilt kits can be great, but they can only be as good as you are at doing them, and the quality of components supplied.
My AC reman 140 amp was 12 bux more then the base level 105 AC reman. It was a no brainer.
My AC reman 140 amp was 12 bux more then the base level 105 AC reman. It was a no brainer.