Oh....check the switch contacts then.

Because..the master might be sending the signal to the other window..and if that switch has a bad contact..it might not be flowing through and reaching the motor.

Yeah, I'll try that before I do anything else. Thanks Bill.

How do I get the master switch apart to get to the contacts? Just pops out? I don't want to break anything else on this car.

Bump.

I haven't tried cleaning the connections yet since I haven't had time, and didn't figure out how to take the switch panel apart.

BUT I did play around with the switches to both right windows today. I figured if it was the swicthes that caused both windows to not open, I could wiggle something enough to make them work. Well it didn't take long after I started moving the switches and the right rear window finally started working (stopped on the way home).

Since I got it to work, even only for a brief amount of time, this SHOULD be the swicthes then right?

You get the switch out with a small thin-blade screwdriver at the FRONT of the plate (the lock-button end), and just pry the plate up.

It is not beyond the realm of possibility that this is not electrical, although the window to fail is usually the most-used driver'* one.

When my driver'* window failed, all the electrical checked out worked fine, and the window motor worked fine. Put it all together and it would fail.

It turned out that the track seems to be binding. I loosened up the mounting bolts on the motor enough so that there was some slack.... 3 years later still no more window problems.

But check out the electrical first.

When you get the switch off, unplug it from the wiring.

I make a jumper out of a piece of copper wire, something like household electrical wiring which is about the right size to fit the holes in the switch plate nicely.

The following is from the 94 shop manual. Every attempt was made to insure accuracy, but I cannot accept responsibility for any errors or typos:

In the holes in the wiring plate:

Pin E should be ground and pin F should be HOT. Put a voltmeter across F to E to be sure you have +12 volts at F (key on).

If that checks out, then (key on, of course) a jumper from:
E (ground) to A... and F (hot) to B.... should drive the right front DOWN.
E (ground) to B... and F (Hot) to A... shoud drive the right front UP.

E (ground) to G... and F (hot) to H.... should drive the right rear DOWN.
E (ground) to H ... and F (Hot) to G... should drive the right front UP.

If jumpering the power directly like that, will drive the windows okay, then the problem is in your drivers switch.

The power does go through the switch at the individual window, so if the jumpered power still does NOT work, the problem MAY be the INDIVIDUAL switches. You can do the jumper trick there, too.... if you pull of the individual switch at the right hand window, and unplug it from the wires....

A will be Hot... check it out with a meter.. If you then jumper A (hot) into D, and jumper ground from somewhere into C, that should drive the window DOWN, and the other way around (A into C and ground into D) should drive the window UP.

Thanks Icebound. That info was pretty helpful. I'm not a big electrical guru so I'll try to understand what all that E to A and C to D stuff means and I'll play around with it. Thanks.

Nowhere is there a C to D

VERY IMPORTANT: I should have mentioned....

If you decide to do the jumper thing at the right-hand doors... do so with the drivers switch pulled out and disconnected.

Dont mind Pete he is a fake

Pete we can fix the windows when you come down on Friday

I wasn't quoting when I said C to D, I was just rambling random letters

Pat, sounds good.

I have not tried that jumper thing, but I got some different switches from the junkyard this weekend, and a passenger side switch that Pat had. Even after replacing both swicthes, the right windows still did not go down. This would make me think it was not the swicthes, but I could still hear a very subtle clicking coming from the pass. door when hitting the switch. Any ideas from this info?