Steering Wheel button reassignment NEED HELP
#21
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Electrical Engineer :)
This is a late post, but I just got back from 56k, so I'm catching up.
Sounds like instead of one button correlating with one wire, you have a matrix going on, like in your keyboard. There are 8 different buttons in all, connected through 4 wires total, correct? The easiest way to figure out what is going on is to draw up a schematic with all the resistors and whatnot and then find the pattern. Then you'll know how the system works and which new jumpers/resistors to implement.
Late thought: push come to shove, disconnect the rest of the board from your two switches that are backwards. to do this, scratch out the leads as close to the button area on the board as you can with a knife. then, solder a jumper from the new dead ends to your other switch, and vice versa. That'd be sorta messy, but it'd work.
Or, you know what you could do? Look for a controller/decoder that you plug your steering wheel buttons into and it generates the IR signal for an aftermarket unit. Then put a nice new aftermarket system in your car
Sounds like instead of one button correlating with one wire, you have a matrix going on, like in your keyboard. There are 8 different buttons in all, connected through 4 wires total, correct? The easiest way to figure out what is going on is to draw up a schematic with all the resistors and whatnot and then find the pattern. Then you'll know how the system works and which new jumpers/resistors to implement.
Late thought: push come to shove, disconnect the rest of the board from your two switches that are backwards. to do this, scratch out the leads as close to the button area on the board as you can with a knife. then, solder a jumper from the new dead ends to your other switch, and vice versa. That'd be sorta messy, but it'd work.
Or, you know what you could do? Look for a controller/decoder that you plug your steering wheel buttons into and it generates the IR signal for an aftermarket unit. Then put a nice new aftermarket system in your car
#22
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I found a wiring diagram for my buttons. wish it were better resolution. now does anybody have one of a grand am or transport?
#24
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I've noticed they [GM] like using resistors instead of serial communications between devices. Changing those button assignments could be interesting, but I've done things harder than that (Just finished putting an external input on my Stock Delco AM/FM/CD. I'm trying to get rid of it for $50, negotiable, if anyone is interested, ask. I changed the seek buttons to choose input/cd player ).
#25
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i'm afraid there'* not enough room in the pods for all the extra wires and resistors it would take. have you ever removed a resistor from a circuit board? i'm not that great soldering, but i might be able to tackle it
#26
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Yeah, I've doen every electronic mod known to man. Removing the resistor isn't tough if you know what you're doing. However, I don't think that'll fix your problems. You need to physically detach the switch where it connects to the resistors only and connect it to the other resistors of the other switch, and vice versa, swapping both the "north" contact (the one touching the resistors) with each other (you will have to add wire jumpers to do this). If you move resistors, you'll mess up the final resistance values, and all buttons after the resistor you moved will be off. However, you could flipflop resistors that are next to each other, and that will effectively swap the buttons. Although, I fear the buttons you're trying to swap aren't side by side on the schematic.
If you end up having to desolder something, go to radio shack and get a 30 watt soldering iron (NOT gun) and some desoldering braid (all for under 10 bucks???). After you iron heats up, melt some solder on the tip, let it sit for 30 seconds, remove it (with a clean cloth, maybe spit in the middle, make sure it'* thick so you don't burn yourself. You do this to ensure a good heat connection between the thing you're gonna be heating up and your iron'* tip). Then, press the desoldering braid against the spot to desolder, holding it there with the tip of the iron (held at 45 degrees) until it soaks up some solder. You'll prolly have to do it a couple times to release the pin from the solder/circuit board completely.
Resoldering, simple. hold the iron on the pin and board at same time (45 degrees) and touch the solder against the pin/board until it soaks up and make a small "bead", and you're done.
If you end up having to desolder something, go to radio shack and get a 30 watt soldering iron (NOT gun) and some desoldering braid (all for under 10 bucks???). After you iron heats up, melt some solder on the tip, let it sit for 30 seconds, remove it (with a clean cloth, maybe spit in the middle, make sure it'* thick so you don't burn yourself. You do this to ensure a good heat connection between the thing you're gonna be heating up and your iron'* tip). Then, press the desoldering braid against the spot to desolder, holding it there with the tip of the iron (held at 45 degrees) until it soaks up some solder. You'll prolly have to do it a couple times to release the pin from the solder/circuit board completely.
Resoldering, simple. hold the iron on the pin and board at same time (45 degrees) and touch the solder against the pin/board until it soaks up and make a small "bead", and you're done.
#27
You need the resistance combinations for the car that your stereo came from. Then you have to solder in the correct resistors. I bet you could deduce some of them. List what happens when you press each button on your existing setup. We could probably figure it out.
#28
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The Preset button is now seek up
seek up is seek down
seek down is Band
RCL is Preset
Preset is Volume up
volume up is volume down
volume down is ST-PL
PWR is Mute
I have decided to assign ST-PL to the RCL button
and to leave Mute on the PWR button
Here is the table of resistances on the steering wheel as it stands:
Preset 1270
Volup 1564
VolDn 1912
PWR 2387
Band 3102
Seekup 4282
SeekDn 6652
RCL 13612
Here is what i want to assign the buttons to:
Preset 13612
Volup 1270
Voldn 1564
PWR 2387
Band 6652
Seekup 3102
Seekdn 4282
RCL 1912
Here is a possible diagram i came up with.
does this look right to you guys?
If i decide to do this, it will be this summer and i'll get a set of buttons from the junk yard to use in case i ruin them.
Can i even find these resistors?
seek up is seek down
seek down is Band
RCL is Preset
Preset is Volume up
volume up is volume down
volume down is ST-PL
PWR is Mute
I have decided to assign ST-PL to the RCL button
and to leave Mute on the PWR button
Here is the table of resistances on the steering wheel as it stands:
Preset 1270
Volup 1564
VolDn 1912
PWR 2387
Band 3102
Seekup 4282
SeekDn 6652
RCL 13612
Here is what i want to assign the buttons to:
Preset 13612
Volup 1270
Voldn 1564
PWR 2387
Band 6652
Seekup 3102
Seekdn 4282
RCL 1912
Here is a possible diagram i came up with.
does this look right to you guys?
If i decide to do this, it will be this summer and i'll get a set of buttons from the junk yard to use in case i ruin them.
Can i even find these resistors?
#29
I spot checked a few of those...you've got the idea!
Sometimes you have to hook resistors in series to get those combinations. Then you just add up the resistance. For example: 1270 = 1000 + 270 in series. Radio shack should be able to help you out.
Sometimes you have to hook resistors in series to get those combinations. Then you just add up the resistance. For example: 1270 = 1000 + 270 in series. Radio shack should be able to help you out.
#30