severe voltage drops
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From: kentucky
severe voltage drops
what would cause the voltage to drop from 13.1 to 11.5 to 11.8 when i am driving at night and i have my headlights on well i let off gas pedal and my lights get real dim and my voltage dropps severly like almost to 10 volts and during daytime my voltage stays at 12.1 mabye a little less is alternator the problem or could it be battery??????? please help these dee tee dee up here at autozone say everything is fine i say they are crazy thanx in advance
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From: Camden, MI
could be alt or battery... if the battery can't actually retain a charge, then it will drop voltage any time the alt alone can't keep up with the electrical draw. if the alt is weak(and it sounds like it) then you could also see this kind of problem.
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From: Sheboygan Wisconsin
A few tests to try, here are a two. But I'm guessing the alt is the problem.
https://www.gmforum.com/trouble-shooting-test-procedures-141/testing-charging-system-279494/
https://www.gmforum.com/trouble-shooting-test-procedures-141/testing-negative-battery-cable-279492/
https://www.gmforum.com/trouble-shooting-test-procedures-141/testing-charging-system-279494/
https://www.gmforum.com/trouble-shooting-test-procedures-141/testing-negative-battery-cable-279492/
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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From: Enfield, CT
If it'* dropping at a stoplight or when the rpm is under 650, that is understandable as the alt kicks off at about 650. (not positive on the rpm for your year, but it'* in that area).
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From: kentucky
i think it might be my audio system draining my batt too much and my alt cant catch up with it what could i do to fix that prob ????? better batt and bigger alt mabye capacitor just a few ideas....... i have a 12 inch alpine type r with infinity refrence 611a amp and a 10 inch type r with a mtx jackhammer jh 600 amp on he 10 with stock batt and alternator
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From: Camden, MI
a capacitor will not crutch an insufficent charging system, which is what you have if you plan on continuously running that sound system.
what you need is two-fold at a minimum: higher amperage alt and potentially a higher capacity battery.
capacitors charge and discharge more or less instantaneously, so whenever your amp drew any power, the alt would still have to replace it since capacitors don't have a lot of capacity compared to a regular auto battery.
what you need is two-fold at a minimum: higher amperage alt and potentially a higher capacity battery.
capacitors charge and discharge more or less instantaneously, so whenever your amp drew any power, the alt would still have to replace it since capacitors don't have a lot of capacity compared to a regular auto battery.
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Engine at 1000 rpm the alternator should maintain 14.4 volts with headlights on. If you have additional current draws like an audio system, 13.6v is ok if you can live with occasional dim lights when stopped.
Alternators have 3 phase AC and the regulators have 3 sets of diodes. Very few cars can detect when 1 set of diodes goes out. But it will show up in the voltage measurements...i.e. the 14.4 volts isn't reached.
When faced with high current audio or other systems, change the alternator to a high current type...they are available for all cars. This will cure any dim headlight situation.
Alternators have 3 phase AC and the regulators have 3 sets of diodes. Very few cars can detect when 1 set of diodes goes out. But it will show up in the voltage measurements...i.e. the 14.4 volts isn't reached.
When faced with high current audio or other systems, change the alternator to a high current type...they are available for all cars. This will cure any dim headlight situation.
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