Radomirian wiring: This is the big one that will fix my 94! - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 04-28-2008, 08:58 PM   #21
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It could be as simple as swapping out that module or cleaning the connections. Sending 12 volts to the output connections on the C1 connector & checking for 12 volts to the input connections on the C2 connector will quickly let you know where you're at. I'd look under the dash & see how hard it is to get to that module.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:57 PM   #22
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The module is buried in that dash...honestly, its far easier to remove the dash first than it is to contort yourself to get the module out.

My module is good, and its in plain view right now. I can rip it out tomorrow and have it sent out Thursday. Let me know.
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Old 04-29-2008, 01:01 AM   #23
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Ever had a bad module? Let'* say that I shove a metal object straight into a bulb socket and then hit the lights. Before the fuse blows out, would the module go bad? Can it go bad all at once from any cause? I remember the day I got my shiny wheels and replacement windshield washer fluid reservoir was when the Bonneville started acting up.

Because I think that taking apart the dash is too much work at the moment, I could at least take the module but pass on the labor for the time being. I want more than anyone to fix the wiring issue properly, but it just takes too much time for one person who'* never taken apart a Bonneville dash.

Sandrock, PM me about the module. I probably still have your PayPal info from the shifter ****.
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:48 AM   #24
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I'm going to dig up this old one. Yep... Time to go back to helping out with this sack of electrical issues. I have a few questions about the stock electronic components as the deal is that I can have fun with electronics while I attempt to reach OE again.

When I give a turn signal, what'* the flashing system? If I increase the load, like with a grounded out positive line, would it flash slowly?

Where can I find OE ohms for the 1157, 1156, and 194 exterior light bulb sockets? Or - I would like someone here to do an ohm test on said light bulb sockets on his or her own 92-95 SSE/SSEi. Pretty, pretty please.

Could someone please provide me with a wiring diagram for the ELC compressor and the module thingie that controls it? < - It'* ok... I'm not screwing up the ELC.

I need also a wiring diagram for the windshield washer fluid level sensor, headlight washer pump, and windshield washer pump. If you can since it'* in the same area, please find for me the gas canister wiring diagram. This is probably the first thing I'll fix, but it'* last because of importance. Basically, I need wire colors and where the wires end up going from the connectors.

Thanks a lot!

EDIT: I got some wiring diagrams via PM. They're very helpful. Still, any more input is awesome. I'd still like some ohms.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:55 AM   #25
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Why don't you buy a FSM set? It would answer pretty much all your questions in this thread.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:55 AM   #26
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Radomir, you're tackling this without an FSM?

It'* not cool to be asking for so much help when you should have had the resources before starting.

On the bulbs, is there a reason you can't check them yourself? Don't tell me you don't have a meter, either?
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Old 05-12-2008, 09:13 AM   #27
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I do have a multimeter, but the ohms I'd like to find out aren't of the bulbs but rather the bulb sockets, if that makes any sense... I'm looking any way I can to find some short somewhere. I did find the positive wire of the passenger side fog lamp was fallen out and dangling, so I cut, stripped, crimped, heatshrunk, and taped it to make sure it stays.

I keep trying on eBay to get an FSM, but I guess I'm not a good bidder. I found one more set. I will win this auction. I keep trying the bid at the last second maneuver, but it seems everyone else does, too.
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Old 05-12-2008, 11:27 AM   #28
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You should have had FSM'* long before you started this work.

www.helminc.com

Without them, you should never have torn into it this deep. In fact, if you'd had them, you wouldn't have NEEDED to tear into it this week.
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Old 05-12-2008, 11:52 AM   #29
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That'* a fantastic point. If I don't win the auction that ends in about 8 hours, which no one here must bid on for the sake of my car ( <-puppy eyes), then I'll buy the manual from Helm. Thank you for that great link! *Bookmarked*

EDIT

Got one on eBay for $64.99 + $10 for shipping. Not the cheapest I've seen, but this is awesome! It'* up in Michigan, so I should get it very, very soon. I'm going to do cosmetic touchups while waiting. Tail lights!
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Old 05-19-2008, 02:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
the ohms I'd like to find out aren't of the bulbs but rather the bulb sockets, if that makes any sense... I'm looking any way I can to find some short somewhere.
That actually does not make any sense. Bulb sockets are sockets. They are connection points from a wire that goes hot when the light is on, and the other terminal which should be grounded. There is nothing to "ohm" between them, other than to confirm that the ground pin is grounded. Then you'd use the voltmeter to confirm that you get 12 volts on the signal pin when the light is supposed to be on.

Why are you trying to find a short? A short circuit will either blow a fuse instantly, or cause your wiring to catch fire. Are you having either of those symptoms?
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