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Old 11-17-2005, 07:29 PM   #11
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Yup. Even a short piece of pipe on a ratchet handle works, but I prefer a non-ratcheting breaker bar.

New or rebuilt from NAPA will be fine. They'll both carry a good warranty. Compare that to the price of a local rebuild. Make sure the rebuild includes new front and rear bearings.
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Old 11-19-2005, 03:51 PM   #12
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I've got the belt off, and I'm waiting for the engine to cool off a bit, so I had one more question before I replace the alternator. Will the pulley automatically line up where the old one is, or do I have to adjust that?
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Old 11-19-2005, 03:57 PM   #13
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Everything will line right up and you will have no worries.
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Old 11-19-2005, 04:22 PM   #14
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Done! I just finished, put the belt back on, and there doesn't seem to be any problems. I'm going to take it for a drive, but I suspect that it'll be just fine. I'll have to replace the tensioner in a few months, and now I think I'm confident enough to do that as well.

Thanks guys! You just helped me save about $100

Michelle
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Old 11-19-2005, 04:57 PM   #15
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That'll do, Michelle. That'll do.

Kinda makes US feel good too. Great work.
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:39 PM   #16
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Problems! I was driving into work this morning, and my amp gauge started moving randomly (no turn signal or radio on, but it fluttered) Occasionally, it would shoot up to 16 amps, then nosedive and I'd hear the low amp *dingding*, but it was only when the car was idling in traffic. It made my headlights and dash go really bright, then dim.

It disappeared when traffic started to move, but then I heard a slight chirping sound, almost like the tensioner is going, but it came from the drivers side of the car, whether stopped or moving. I put the lights down to the parking lights, and the amp needle didn't bounce so much, but I still got the occasional chirp.

Does this sound like the tensioner going? My overpriced mechanic said that it had 6 months left in it about 7 months ago. But I did just put in a new battery and alternator, and the belt is less than a year old. If I got a bad alternator or battery, I'd love to save the hassle of doing a new tensioner assembly. The car starts hard, too, since I got the new battery, but I think that may be a vacuum leak or dirty TB.

You guys are wonderful, by the way. Can't beat a crowd that loves Bonnevilles as much as I do.
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:44 PM   #17
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First thing is pull the belt. When pulling is there good tension holding it on? Then spin the alternator, it should spin freely w/o any squeaking.

If the alt is making noise, bring it back for replacement..call it a loaner...lol
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:06 PM   #18
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My first thought would be to snug down the battery connections a bit, so go ahead and do that (after you check the belt tension).

However, the fact that it jumps to 16 volts concerns me and makes me think the alternator is bogus.
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
My first thought would be to snug down the battery connections a bit, so go ahead and do that (after you check the belt tension).

However, the fact that it jumps to 16 volts concerns me and makes me think the alternator is bogus.
Good possibility.... The Alt should only put out roughly 14.5 volts cold...And as low as 13.0-14v warm.... 16v is a little excessive... Could be a bad alt... I have seen that happen a time or 2...

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Old 11-30-2005, 06:25 PM   #20
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I'll check it out when I can, I'm at work right now in my dress clothes.

I do remember thinking that the belt was not nearly as hard to get off as I thought it would be, but this is the only belt I've taken off. I had a 20" breaker bar, and I took the tension off enough to get the belt off with one hand, and I'm a small woman. Alternator'* easy to get out though if it'* bad.
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