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Old 06-09-2004, 10:29 PM   #11
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My wire feels a little thick also. I can barely wrap it around the toggle. What is a good gauge to use?
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Old 06-09-2004, 10:31 PM   #12
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How much power? I personally don't use anything less then 16, but that'* just me...

Hey, how about getting some of those clips from radio shack? They sell it in a male/female set, but the female fit on most switches, and they crimp right onto the wire.
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Old 06-09-2004, 10:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twister97
Yea, it was lighted. The power was in the middle, and the ground was to the side. For the life of me I could not re-create it. Are the two prong switches a lot easier to deal with?
In the first pic, you described :
Quote:
Yellow is on right, black in middle, and white on left
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Old 06-09-2004, 10:34 PM   #14
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Hey twist, looks like you've gotten too ticked that it didn't work to think straight, I say take a half hour off, then jump in and double check everything.
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Old 06-09-2004, 10:38 PM   #15
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Unfortunetly it is really overcast here and the sun is setting. I am going to do some more research tonight and probably hit it tommarow or Friday since I have off.

One more thing to add. The device I am trying to toggle up, it does not have any power going to it.....
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Old 06-09-2004, 10:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
How much power? I personally don't use anything less then 16, but that'* just me...

Hey, how about getting some of those clips from radio shack? They sell it in a male/female set, but the female fit on most switches, and they crimp right onto the wire.
Very good advice. Insulated female crimp-on connectors.

Aligator clips will also become your best friend if you do a lot of electrical testing. A couple of bucks at the Shack for clips and fuses... some spare wire laying around the house... you'll have a nice, easy and safe way to test, troubleshoot and create.

I used to use this Snap-On tester that had a heavy duty aligator clip with a piercing pin on one end and a very sharp probe that would accomidate another clip on the other end when I was installing remote starters. It became one of my favorite tools.
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Old 06-09-2004, 10:45 PM   #17
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Thats some good info, think I will hit the shack pretty soon. I cant find what my radar detector uses for input power. No stickers, I even opened the case up and it did not say anything.
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Old 06-09-2004, 11:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twister97
Thats some good info, think I will hit the shack pretty soon. I cant find what my radar detector uses for input power. No stickers, I even opened the case up and it did not say anything.
Check the owners manual or manufacturer'* website, if any, for input voltage. It'* important that you don't apply 12 volts to something that takes less. If it does take less, don't worry. It might actually be easier than cutting and connecting the very small wires contained in the cig cord. All you'd have to do is wire up a female cigarette plug under the dash in a convenient location. Wired from your illuminated switch, of course.
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Old 06-10-2004, 05:12 PM   #19
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when wiring a lighted switch, look on the BODY of the switch it shoudl say pwr, acc, and ground
you want to run either a constant hot wire or a switched on ign wire to the pwr prong, the positive of ur light to the acc prong, then ground your light and your switch.... and it should work. also the switch COULD be bad, ive had tht happen a few times, to verify your neon is actully WORKING touch + to + and gnd to gnd to make sure it does indeed light up


i CAN get you a diagram for a lighted switch if that would help
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Old 06-10-2004, 10:54 PM   #20
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Yea, could you get me a diagram? That would be helpful a lot, I am going to try to tackle this again tommarow.
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