is there a seperate door lock motor relay for the LF motor?

reason asking is that i have power to the motor and it doesnt work still?
and all the others work
could this be a reason why i blow fuses some times
the all the others will work fine for a few days then i blow a fuse

anyone?

There is only one actuator in each door but the circuit for the driver'* door unlock is isolated for the two stage remote unlock. Intermittent fuse blowing could be caused by a failing actuator. Basically, the actuator will draw more current under a strain. Similar to when your lights dim when you roll the window all the way up and still press the switch.

When you say "power to the motor" do you mean you are connecting +12v to one wire on the actuator and ground to the other? You don't want to apply +12v directly to the wires as they rest at ground. Applying +12v will result in a dead short. To test the actuator, disconnect the wire connection and use an alligator clips. One should be grounded and the other should be a fused +12v source. Clip the grounded wire to one pin and just touch the other clip to the other pin. Avoid touching the +12v clip to the pin for longer than 1 second and avoid touching the actuator housing. The actuator should move the lock in one direction. reversing the wires should move it in the other.

well with the volt meter there is power to the connector the driver door lock motor never worked but the others do there is a new door lock motor installed and still nothing power to the connector but it doesn lock and unlock

Is there +12v to both wires? What color are the wires you are testing?

Yes, when one wire is hot, the other is supposed to function as the ground; their roles reverse to operate the lock the other way. A double-relay controller operates it.

This may have nothing to do with it, but are you able to operate the car locks from either of the inside door rocker switches? How about from outside, using a key in the door? (Again, testing both door key locks, not just the driver'* side.) I'm wondering here whether there might be any other symptoms that could give us some more clues.

It sounds to me as if there is +12v to the wires at all times, not just when the lock switches are pressed. As if they're resting at +12v instead of ground. Can you confirm Gameover?

exactly

orange and gray