Knock Sensor and not enough electrical current.... - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 04-19-2007, 12:05 PM   #11
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Get the battery and alternator tested. This shouldn't be a tough one.
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Old 04-20-2007, 01:19 AM   #12
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Thanks, hopfully I get this solved soon, I really need my car back.
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Old 04-20-2007, 08:08 PM   #13
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I went to my mechanic today and he said he THINKS its an electrical short. He has when the car starts it runs perfect but once it gets hot it shuts off. He said that since he is good friends with the guy across the street that owns the electrical shop he'll take it over there tomorrow. I hope he finds out what it is and fixes it.
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Old 04-21-2007, 05:25 PM   #14
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I went and got my car from the mechanic this morning. The alternator and battery tested ok. The car starts and runs fine but my mechanic told me once the car gets warm it acts up and cuts off. When I got it home I checked the bus connectors on the side of each seat. What did I find.....?? Water, there was a lot of moisture on both sides. I cleaned the connectors with sand paper as instructed and reassembled everything. Much to my disappointment though my locks still don't work. The funniest thing about it all is that when I took my car to my mechanic my seats or my locks didn't work. When I got it back today the seat works but still no luck with the locks. Could there possibly be a connection with the locks and the battery drain??
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Old 04-21-2007, 05:29 PM   #15
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Both problems could be related. Do you have a mutimeter with a 10 amp setting?
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Old 04-21-2007, 07:02 PM   #16
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I dont have one but I'm pretty sure my brother-in-law has one. If he does what do I need to check.
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Old 04-22-2007, 09:03 AM   #17
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Remove the negative battery cable & connect the meter (set for 10 amps) between the cable and battery. The meter will spike around 2-5 amps then drop down as the pcm goes into power saving mode. It should be end up less than 1/10 amp. Everything in the car needs to be off when doing this test.

If you're getting more than 1/10 amp you need to pull fuses until you find the circuit that is causing the drain. In your case start with the fuse for the locks.
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Old 04-23-2007, 12:31 PM   #18
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I got my car back Saturday and I drove it home and parked it in the driveway. I then proceeded to checking the bus connectors on the sides of the seats. It was wet but drying and cleaning it didnt solve any problems. Sunday my battery was completely drained. I put the battery charger on it the only thing it does is brings back the chime to let you know the door is open. One other odd thing it does is you can hear the tape deck rewinding. Other than that it won't fully charge. I'm starting to think that there is nothing I can do myself and that I am going to have to take it back to another shop.
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Old 04-23-2007, 05:27 PM   #19
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Was the battery connected or disconnected while charging?
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Old 04-23-2007, 08:52 PM   #20
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It was connected. I disconnected it and got it chargd at autozone. I put the battery back in a drove to a mechanic. When I explained to him what the car does he said it be a lockout converter, which is in the transmission. I then proceeded to a transmission shop so they could better diagnose it but the car cut off. I waited 15 minutes and it started back up and i started to drive again but it didnt last long. I dont think it has anything to do with that lockout converter thing he told me about. I'm not that experienced but Im thinking it might either be my battery cables, an electrical shortage, or something with the fuel system. Maybe the fuel pump, filter, or something. The car runs fine when it'* first started but once its been on for like 30 minutes it cuts off. Someone also said it could possibly need a tune up. I really just need to find someone or someplace that does full auto repairs and diagnostics.
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