Alright I will run out right now and check. I was doing some reading too and saw that a lot of people had no interior lights and no door locks when their module went bad. My lights still come on and I have the chime when I put the key in so this makes my bad module situation seem kind of iffy.

Yup on the spare tire cover there is a code the starts with AU.

Ok - then you must have Keyless Entry but didn't get the remotes when you bought the car. I looked at a wiring diagram & it looks like the door locks should work from the door switches even if the RAC module is bad. That makes me think you might want to check the ground buss again before spending money on a new module.

Ok I will check the ground busses again. If it does restore my door locks this time do you think that is the cause of my constant battery drain? And would the ground buss cause my car to have a 14 amp reading when its off?

You should also check the battery cables for corrosion. Remove the bolts & pull the rubber boots to see if there is corrosion between the cable ends.

I'm checking with the other Gearheads to see if the RAC module can cause stalling. We'll get back to you on that but the battery cables are often the cause of that. Very often!

I doubt if a bad ground would cause a battery drain. The way to narrow that down is to pull fuses until the reading on the meter drops to normal.

Thats what the mechanic was doing when I had it at the shop. He was pulling the fuses to see if it would drop. The only thing he hadn't pulled was the RAC module. Thats what led him to believe thats what was causing the draw. And I only have the buss connector with the black wires, I dont see any other ones.

Are the black wires for the bus connectors supposed to go in any certain order and how many wires should there be. The diagram had more wires than I have on mine.

The brother is a bit off on his idea behind disconnecting the battery when running. We've got tons of documented cases here. No battery.. no runny. I would steer away from the alternator/battery thoughts completely.

This is most likely a module. I've seen bad RAC and MALL/Body Control Modules.

Why not reach up and unplug the RAC...then see if the draw is still present?

Maybe only the 1st generation (FWD) had the other connectors.

The grounds don't have to be in any certain order & the number of wires probably changed with different years & options.

Do you have a meter that you can use to check Amps?

Nope my brother in law has a meter but I will have to wait until he gets home from work. I did find the RAC module though, I am utterly disgusted at the mechanic who wanted to charge me all that money for a module you can reach up and grab. Also will anything happen if I disconnect the module? It would make a good conversation piece when I give the ripoff mechanic the, "You're full of crap" speech.