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Old 05-15-2007, 06:44 PM   #1
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Default I think it might be the end of the road

Ok, so I have been having a bunch of problems with my bonneville lately. At first, I thought the Bus Connectors might solve the problem but it didnt. Then I was told by a mechanic that it was a lockout convertor in the trans, wrong. Next was the ELC which I have to credit the mechanic for being wrong again. Now, he'* saying that it is probably the RAC module. I wasn't too worried about it until they called me and said worst case scenario, if the RAC was bad that it would cost around $1000. Something about the removal of the dash to get to the module would be the bulk of the cost. That and getting it flashed and my keys reprogrammed. I'm not sure but does this sound right? Should it really be that much? And if so, is there a diagram of how to remove the dash so I could possibly check it myself. I need help on this one.
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Old 05-15-2007, 07:07 PM   #2
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That module is about $120-130 from GMPD

And you do not have to remove the dash to replace it... Its a 5 minute job to replace the module..

And if you know what to look for it will cost $20-30 from the wrecker...

Don't let the dealership rip you off...

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Old 05-15-2007, 08:01 PM   #3
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I think that might be what they're trying to do because they said the module would be $264 by itself.
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Old 05-15-2007, 09:37 PM   #4
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Just remember GMPD is not a GM parts counter.. and there prices reflect that.

i never found them a good price comparison
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Old 06-06-2007, 11:35 AM   #5
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Ok, I was going to just give up on the car, thats why I haven't put any effort into trying to find the problem. But I cant go without my car anymore so I need to find and try to fix things myself since the shop wants to charge me $1000. Where is the RAC module located and is there any insight anyone can offer as to how to remove it??
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:28 PM   #6
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Hang in there for a bit and don't give up! I don't have your answer, but I know that there are guys here that do.
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Old 06-06-2007, 06:26 PM   #7
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All I can do is wait. Hopefully someone can help me get my problem solved or at least point me in the direction of a solution.
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Old 06-07-2007, 09:18 AM   #8
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Reading this..I can't help but think that if you posted your problem in detail..

Just maybe we could diagnose it for you w/o charging $1,000. However you ahven't posted it...we can't read your mind... we can only tell you the price of the part your crooked mechanic told you was bad.

There are pictures around that Randman1 posted..showing the location of all these parts. There are numerous references to what these look like.... it'* a box up under the passenger side of the dash.
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Old 06-07-2007, 10:59 AM   #9
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*This is a long post, I had to give full details so I can get the best help possible*

Ok, well at the very begginning of all my problems my power door locks had stopped working. I had also lost power to my drivers seat and the cigarette lighter on the back of the console had gotten loose. These werent really a big deal because the car ran fine without them. Anyway shortly after these problems occurred I developed a new problem. When I was driving after the car had been on for like 30 minutes the battery hand would go haywire and the car would stall. It wouldnt start back up unless you waited another 20 or 30 minutes.

That lasted for maybe a week or so then my battery started to drain overnight. I took the battery and got it charged and tested at Autozone and they said it was fine. The next morning it was dead again. I got charged and tested again and this time the battery was supposedly bad. After that I put the battery in a quickly drove it to my mechanic. He kept for a few days and while he had it he tested my alternator and my battery. Both checked out fine. He also said that he thinks its something electrical which he doesnt do so he charged my battery again and I drove it home. After getting it home I found a mechanic right down the street that does full auto repair.

When I took it to them I explained everything that was happening and they told me it sounds like I have parasitic draw, which I had already concluded from my readin on here. They took a reading of my battery when the car was off and it would put out anywhere between and 11 and 14amps which I was told is extremely high. He thought maybe the ELC was causing the draw which it wasn't. So he started checking everything wired into the module. After no luck he said that he believed that the RAC module itself was bad.

Supposedly the RAC module was located behind the dash which is why it costs so much to remove. They said with the removal of the dash, the replacement module, getting the module and my key fobs flashed and reprogrammed, and the reassembly would run at or above $1000. Out of the $1000 they said $264 would be for the replacement module. With that being said I concluded that they wanted to charge me $736 to take out the old module and get the new one reprogrammed. Seeing how I had just gotten out of the hospital from having a car fall on me I wasnt thrilled about paying a $12,000 hospital bill and the potential ripoff cost for my car. I chose the more important one and left the car alone until I got tired of driving my moms Jetta. I got on here and found out that the module shouldnt cost as much as they said and that it wasnt located behind the dashboard. Now I need help as to where the location of the RAC module is so I can start to try and fix the problem myself. I hope all of this helps.
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Old 06-07-2007, 11:37 AM   #10
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The keyless entry module( RAC ) is under the passenger side of the dash... The Black plastic hush panel will have to be removed... Should be 3 screws holding towards the front of the dash and a couple of wing nuts at the fire wall..

From there you will be able to look up and easily find the module cliped to the multi way bracket.. You will also find the PCM tucked up in there...

This will all take you 5 to 10 minutes...



The above is a pic of what you are looking for... It will be a black box with 2 or 3 connectors... The connectors will be blue and white, blue on one side white on the other..I had the RAC'* open to display the guts in the pic... Best pic I could find

When you remove your RAC you will need to know if you have a 3 plug or 2 plug RAC.... The 3 plug is for the security system, and the 2 plug is without security.. You have to use the right RAC for the car..

When you pull your RAC you will look for the Numbers ABO0302R, If its been replaced before it may say ABO0303R..

Most U Pull its or LKQ'* will charge 20-30 for the box..

Hope that helps

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