the easiest way to test continuity is with an Ohm-meter. Infinity when open, zero when closed. No power required.

...except for the little battery in the test meter...

Yes, you're unplugging the switch from the car, then testing the switch, so basically it doesn't matter whether the ignition is on or off since the switch is not in the car.

Also, I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that when the switch closes those two contacts, the HUD processor switches to Metric mode. Therefore when you unplug the switch for testing, you should find that your HUD is now in MpH mode, and if you short the two wires together at the connector (i.e. as if you had plugged in the switch and pressed the button), you should find that the HUD comes up in Metric mode.

So after you've gotten all through the above, you'll know whether you have a bad switch or a bad circuit, and take it from there.

I tested the switch today w/ the ohm-meter. When I touched the bottom 2 contacts it went from 1 to 0.01. Again I'm new, so does this mean that it should be functioning?

yupperz, That 1 means its open, the 0.01 means it is an open circuit meaning the switch works. Basically it means the switch is not your problem.


-justin

Ok, now you get the fun....

Pull off the defrost panel, it has three clips around the HUD, then it'* velco'd down, then it slides out.

The HUD is held in with four T15'*, see if you can slide the wires back and forth easily, They seem to have an intermittent short..