thats why i posted here in the electrical forum, because both heater core hoses are hot, seeming to indicate the coolant is flowing fine.

If you are not getting hot enough air out of either the passenger or driver'* side with the temperature set at maximum, it is not likely to be an actuator. Each side has it'* own, and chances are they will not both fail at the same time, and the same degree. The 2000 does not flash the temperature when a fault occurs. This is the description. The system will base how much heat is needed based upon the ambient temperature sensor. As suggested in your thread on its improper reading, replace that sensor as it is likely your problem.

Thanks, Dick. That is exactly the info needed here. It would make sense that if his ambient temp sensor was reading 100*+, that the system may not throw out full heat, even if commanded to do so.

ok, so what do you guys think about this:

when i unplug the ambient air temp it seems to "reset" itself. i'll leave it unplugged for about a minute and plug it back up. Temp displayed will default to 50F after its connected again, and stay at 50 for about 5-10 mins. While the temp display is reading 50F, the heat is not very hot either.

does this make sence? i guess even though the sensor seems to be reading a lower temp, the fact that is is not working properly could be throwing the hvac out of wack? or what about the fact that when i have the sensor completely disconnected it still doesnt get hot?

I am not really sure where to go on this one :? The 2000+ are a still quite foreign to me. Again, if you have hot feed and return hoses to and from the heater core, then that tells me that there is hot air, but it is not being allowed to be distributed to the cabin of the car. And on a 92-99, that "mix" of cold and hot air occurs at the airmix door (two of them if you have seperate driver/passenger controls), which is controlled by the airmix door actuator (Again, I assume there are two in a 2000+ with seperate driver/passenger controls). The airmix actuator gets it'* signals electronically from the HVAC programmer which is a computer that takes inputs (in "AUTO" mode: temps selected form the HVAC control panel on the dash, ambient air temp from external temp sensor, and internal cabin temp from internal sensors) and directs the system what to do. In manual mode I assume it would override the sensors and use only driver/passenger inputs selected from the dash to direct system actions.

In short, it would appear that the actuator, the HVAC programmer, the HVAC controller, or one of the sensors has failed and the system is unable (or unwilling) to open the airmix door. Other than that, the only other issue could be the airmix door is binding, but I have yet to see that occur here with a memebrs car.

Guys, have we ever had an airmix actuator fail on a 2000+ yet? A controller? A programmer?

There'* no way to know if it'* reading a true temp. That may be a default indication the ECC shows when it loses and regains the signal. Please check the resistance of the sensor as I indicated above, and tell us what it measures, as well as what the approximate temperature of the sensor is. If you do this inside, make sure the sensor has a few minutes to stabilize at the new temperature.

Or simply replace the sensor. It'* very likely bad (not likely a wiring problem) and should be replaced anyway. In addition, it MIGHT fix your more annoying problem.


EDIT:

Go here for sensor testing: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=24

It is the best course of action to take since it needs to be replaced anyways and hopefully will fix the problem