I came out to the car this morning to a dead battery. So I call a friend for a boost, when he got there and we tooked up the cables the heater came on. And when he wiggled the cables for a better connection I noticed the needles on the cluster started bouncing when ever the cables moved.

I went over to my folks place. When I got there and shut the car off . I was walking in the I heared the heater fan come on, so I walked back and noticed the climate control was on and the fan was blowing. What is going on?

I pulled the fuse out and put it back in and it seams alright now, but I have a feeling that this is only a quick fix and it is going to come back.

Please help me

Disconnect the negative and positive battery cables from the battery. Pull the plastic boots off the cables. You'll very likely find alot of corrosion hiding in there that you can't see. Clean that corrosion, apply dielectric grease, put the boots back on, and reconnect your battery.

Chances are very good that this will solve your problem.

Ok I will give that a try. Thanks

Sorry been a busy, but I did try cleaning the postive and negitive but no change. Today when I got off work, I found the heater on and the fan blowing. I all so noticed the lights on the console are light up too. Now my situation has gotten worse, it doesn't shut off at all. I spent a few hours to night going over wire but couldn't find anything with corrosion.

Now I do have a remote start, that was put in back in November. I looked at the wiring coming out of the unit all looks good. I even pulled the fuses out of it. I even went as far as pulling the connectors out of the brain. Still nothing

I am so lost and fustrated, please help me again.

I forgot the lamp modual show all my lamps out when I start the car, but as I let it run they go out one at a time.

Sorry for the spelling mistakes, not the best speller.

Your car is suffering from a classic case of under-voltage. When you cleaned your battery connections, did you actually remove the boots? That'* where the corrosion hides, and you can't see it unless you pull the boots off the cables. Trust me. I've been there. In severe cases, the corrosion actually grows down THROUGH the cable essentially turning your cable into a resistor.

Try this:

At idle, check the voltage of the alternator measuring from the charge post on the back of the alternator, using CHASSIS ground. Report back with your number.

Now check the same voltage at the positive battery post, using the CHASSIS as a ground.

Now check the positive battery post voltage using the NEGATIVE post as ground.

Now shut the car off and let it sit for about 10 minutes, and give us the negative post to positive post battery voltage again.

Report all 4 numbers back here. We can use these numbers (hopefully) to narrow down your problem.

Just read up on what was posted, I will test that tomorrow.

But my buddy and I went over the car again today looking at the wire under the dash, engine bay, and in the trunk. We found nothing that made a difference. But I found this a little strange I was pulling fuses to see which ones knock the power out on everying. I found out when I pulling out the fuse 9C (level control, I believe (20amp)) out everything shut down. I don't know if this will help you, help me. But I thought I would add that in.

Thanks again

To add a couple of measurement points while you're doing things...measure from the positive battery post to another voltage source like the starter or a fuse in the maxi-center, and then from the negative battery post to engine or chassis ground. Let us know what those readings are, also.

Ok this is what I got.

Car running
charge post on alternator to chassis ground. 14.24
postive post to chassis 14.15
postive post to negative post 14.19

Car shut off for 10 mins.
postive post to negative post 12.8

I also decided to check to see if there was power in that fuse I pulled out car. With the car not running there was power present. 13.00

Now in my last post I made a mistake the fuse was in 9B and in say 20A LVL CNTRL.

I will try to check those other posts this evening.

Thanks again

I'd go back to the installer of the remote starter & have them check it out.

Archon should the car be running when I check those other things? Am I looking for volts or omhs?