Hi, was trying to fix my gauges again and steering wheel buttons when I remembered the parking lights didn't work at all on the switch. Figuring corroded or loose connector I pulled the light switch out. I got a big surprise.
The connector is melted (pic is bad...but you can see it'* bad)

The switch itself has burnt pins and a black melted blob on it.


On the connector there is a wire that (black, probably a ground) was corroded, partially pulled out and probably caused the meltdown.

Please help, my current thoughts are get a new/used switch and get another connector from a junk yard, cut mine off, soldier the new one on and shrink wrap the connections.

Anyone have a switch and or more ideas for me? I'm pretty sure of what I need to do. And I've got the tools and talent to make it happen. Just putting it out for any ideas you might have.

Exactly what I would suggest. The only switch I have is from a 93 and is quite different from what you have.

x2...but you need to find out where this came from, and why....so it doesnt happen as soon as you plug it back in...

gearheads?

That loos like a short in the switch itself. It is so localized that the wire burnt and the circuit opened before any other damage could occur. I've seen wires burn like a firecracker fuse when the problem is down the line further.

Yes I would have to agree here. But when you plug it back in, be ready to tear it out quick if another wiring problem happens right away down the line.

See my first post. Theres a nice wire that looks 3/4 of the way yanked out of the connector and corroded with beautiful green corrosion...and it'* right where the worst of the melting happened. Plus the light switch side looked like it wasn't making good contact and heated up as well.

Seen this on the general illumination circuit of pinballs many times. One poor connection heats up the whole mess and destroys it.

However...with all that said...I'm up for ideas. And will be testing all the wires with my meter. (and my newly arrived Helm FSM)

I melted an Optima Red Top battery that way in my car.....At least I only paid 20 bux for it.

Anyone know if I need the hieadlight switch in to drive the car? I am assuming as long as I ensure the connector doesn't ground I could run the car w/o headlights. I want to test out my dash and other stuff tonight before I can get to the junkyard this weekend.

The car will run without the headlight switch, yes. I had a Cougar way back when that the lgiht switch died on. I pulled it out and replaced it with two toggle switches. Why I didn't go to the junkyard for a different switch I do not know...

I looked for a switch and harness when I went to Worcester this morning and they didn't have anything newer than a 93. That style switch began in 95 I believe.