good battery, bad car
#11
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there is a block ground under the front exhaust manifold, one under the ICM, and a 3rd somewhere else I think.
The main battery ground is actually near the rear corner of the battery right under the lip where the fender bolts on.
if your battery tests good, and you get no power to anything I would be looking at ALL the wires. (check to make sure the fuses look ok too)
The main battery ground is actually near the rear corner of the battery right under the lip where the fender bolts on.
if your battery tests good, and you get no power to anything I would be looking at ALL the wires. (check to make sure the fuses look ok too)
#12
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Check all of the fuses in the Maxifuse Relay center... Pull them one by one and make sure that they are not blown or corroded... I have seen a couple of those fuses blow causing a no power condition..
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#13
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Ok, so I've checked all the color maxifuses up by the wipers, and they're fine. What are the small boxes beneath those, should I check those too? The terminals on the battery and the cables still have the jelly stuff on them, and aren't corroded.
The ground under the ICM looks pretty corroded, that'll probably be my next step. From what I can see with a mirror, the ground is bolted between the block and the bracket supporting the ICM. It'* a pretty tight squeeze getting in there. Should I pull the coils off the bracket to get in there? Will that open up the chance that I'll mess something else up? I'm not so good with electrical, and pretty broke too, so if I don't have to risk breaking something expensive, I don't want to.
Thanks for all your help so far on this
The ground under the ICM looks pretty corroded, that'll probably be my next step. From what I can see with a mirror, the ground is bolted between the block and the bracket supporting the ICM. It'* a pretty tight squeeze getting in there. Should I pull the coils off the bracket to get in there? Will that open up the chance that I'll mess something else up? I'm not so good with electrical, and pretty broke too, so if I don't have to risk breaking something expensive, I don't want to.
Thanks for all your help so far on this
#14
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I'm stumped on this one. I checked all the grounds, the two behind the ICM and the one on the fender, and cleaned them up. Still nothing.
I'm wondering now if there'* a blown fusible link between the battery and the fuses along the windshield, or if my positive cable is corroded. I'm going out now to see if I can find any along the wiring going to the alternator, starter or main fuses.
Any other ideas out there?
I'm wondering now if there'* a blown fusible link between the battery and the fuses along the windshield, or if my positive cable is corroded. I'm going out now to see if I can find any along the wiring going to the alternator, starter or main fuses.
Any other ideas out there?
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I do have a multimeter. Is that the same thing? I've never used it before.
I was looking at the wiring diagram, and there'* 3 wires going from the battery, one to the maxifuses, one to the alternator, and one to the starter. With these problems, could the fault be in the wire to the fuses, or could it be any of them?
I was looking at the wiring diagram, and there'* 3 wires going from the battery, one to the maxifuses, one to the alternator, and one to the starter. With these problems, could the fault be in the wire to the fuses, or could it be any of them?
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Get that multi-meter & let'* check a few things. Set the meter for DC volts. Put the red tester lead on the positive battery terminal & the black lead on the negative battery terminal. The meter should be reading around 12-13 volts. Now move the black lead to something metal & clean on the engine. Meter should still be reading 12-13 volts. If not the negative cable or the connection on either end are bad.
If the meter is showing 12-13 volts we need to check the positive battery cables. Clean the bolt that each of the positive battery cables connect to. Put the black meter lead on the negative battery terminal & the red lead on each of the bolts you just cleaned. Both should be showing 12-13 volts. Report your findings.
If the meter is showing 12-13 volts we need to check the positive battery cables. Clean the bolt that each of the positive battery cables connect to. Put the black meter lead on the negative battery terminal & the red lead on each of the bolts you just cleaned. Both should be showing 12-13 volts. Report your findings.
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Ok, I did the check. The first one was 12.9, and the second one was 10.8. I wasn't sure about the third one, I think maybe my cables are different. Mine has the bolt that goes thru the middle of the circular disks for both wires, and bolts into the side of the battery.
Those are all cleaned up, but I wasn't sure if you wanted me to check them while they're bolted to the battery or not. I tried checking by connecting the black tester on the negative terminal and the red tester on each of the wires, but they weren't connected to the battery at the time. I got 0 for both of those.
Those are all cleaned up, but I wasn't sure if you wanted me to check them while they're bolted to the battery or not. I tried checking by connecting the black tester on the negative terminal and the red tester on each of the wires, but they weren't connected to the battery at the time. I got 0 for both of those.
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For these tests all cables need to be connected to the battery. The prime suspects will be the negative cable and the positive cable going to the maxifuse center. Let'* concentrate on testing those two.
Test #1 - Put red tester lead on positive battery terminal & black lead on something metal on engine.
Test #2 - Put black tester lead on negative battery terminal & red lead where cable attaches to maxicenter.
Test #1 - Put red tester lead on positive battery terminal & black lead on something metal on engine.
Test #2 - Put black tester lead on negative battery terminal & red lead where cable attaches to maxicenter.
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I went out to recheck everything, and I couldn't get over 0.4 when I checked between the terminals with the cables on. I couldn't get a reading with the tester on the red terminal and the black on a piece of metal when the cable was bolted in either.
Without the cables, I got 12.5 between the terminals. (I forgot to check to the maxifuse center.) As I was taking it all apart to clean it again, I stripped the threads of the negative terminal, so I'm just going to buy all new contacts and bolts for the cables and try again tomorrow. I'm hoping this will solve my problems.
Thanks for your help so far
Without the cables, I got 12.5 between the terminals. (I forgot to check to the maxifuse center.) As I was taking it all apart to clean it again, I stripped the threads of the negative terminal, so I'm just going to buy all new contacts and bolts for the cables and try again tomorrow. I'm hoping this will solve my problems.
Thanks for your help so far