My car has the anti theft system where it will sound the horn if a door is opened while its locked or something liek that, so does this count as an alarm system when I apply for insurance? Or do they strictly mean an aftermarket alarm system with a horn and all the sensors?

It qualifies. Factory systems are preferred over aftermarket by insurance companies since they're built into the car and less prone to failure.

Oh ok , thats good then. MY friendhad an alarm installed a couple months ago and they did a pitiful job wiring it, there are stripped wire exposed and its all taped up using the electrical tape they peeled off the harness under the dash, and now his parking lights keep shorting so he cant drive at night without getting pulled over. I was really hoping I wouldnt have to install one for insurance, thanks

I need help with the alarm for my '91...it just goes off for no reason at all. GM techies tell me ist most likly the trunk sensor..but I'm not sure how to test it. when all the doors are closed the security light keeps flashing. and I have connected and disconnected that sensor. I looked in tech info but could not find anything. Has anyone else had the same problem? I would really like to get it working again
thanks

does the alarm go off al by itself when the doors are locked and theres noone near it? or does it happen when you unlock the door with the key and open the door? do the dome lights flicker when the alarm goes off? i have the gm service manual for my 90 so the troubleshooting info is here. this is how the alarm is supposed to work, exerpt from page 8A-133-8 of the FMS

ARMING
The arming sequence begins when the Ignition Switch is tured OFF. This removes battery voltage at terminal K of the Theft Deterrent Controller, the Ignition Input. If either Door Lock Switch is moved to LOCK, and at least one door is open, momentary battery voltage is applied at terminal G, the Arm Input. At the same time, the open door places a ground at terminal J. The arming sequence is completed by closing the last door, which removes the ground signal from terminal J.

CANCELLATION
The arming sequence can be cancelled by moving a Front Door Lock Switch to the UNLOCK position before the door is closed tocomplete the armin of the system. Battery voltage is applied momentarily to terminal M of the Theft Deterrent Controller with the Door Lock Switch in UNLOCK. This cancels the arming.

DISARMING
When one of the doors is unlocked with a key, a grounding switch in the Front Door Lock Cylinder closes. This ground terminal H of the Controller, the Disable Input. The system is disarmed and no alarms will operate when a door is opened.

TAMPERING
The alarms are set off when the terminal J of the Theft Defterrent Controller, the Tamper Input, is grounded by the Door Jamb Switches, the Luggage Compartment Lid Tamper Switch, or the Forced Entry Switches. The Forced Entry Switches and the Luggage Compartment Lid Tamper Switch close when there is motion between a door or the Luggage Compartment Lid and its switch. This happens when a door lock is forced or removed. The Forced Entry Switches then ground the Tamper Input and sets off the alarms.
The Theft Deterrent Diode isolates the LH Front Door Jamb Switch. The Multi-Function Chime (MFC) Module also uses this switch. The diode prevents the other switches in the Theft Deterrent System from operating the Ignition Key Warning.


so thats how it works. If you system is just going off for no reason then maybe the trunk switch or the other forced entry switches (little switches in the lock assembly) are shorting to ground. its not the trunk sensor because you said it does it when you disconnected it, if the dome lights flicker or go on when the alarm acctivates then its probably a door jamb switch shorting to ground. If the dome lights do not come on then it could be a front door lock switch shorting to ground. If the system is armed (power lock the doors then close them all) the alarm will go off when a door is opened without the module getting the 'unlocked' signal. Your alarm thinks it being tampered with because its getting the TAMPER signal by a door switch or a lock switch shorting to ground. Sorry if that was a bit confusing, im not very good at explaining things.

If you don't want to have to buy another trunk lock cylinder and have it re-keyed and that'* actually your problem (that would be my best guess too):

1. Remove the trunk lid capet if equipped.
2. Find the lock cylinder and follow the cable from it up to the electrical connector.
3. Disconnect the connector and let it dangle.
4. Re-install carpet if removed in step 1.

That'* the state of my SSEi right now. That tamper switch is useless. Just disconnect it and it'll default to 'safe' mode.

Phoenix flame- thanks for the reply
I have the factory manual for the 91' but the trouble shooting has not helped me much. The "little" switches that you are refering to- is that a piece that has a small yellow arm on it? and is connected to the actual door lock mechanism? black and grey wire if im not mistaken?

basically when everything is closed the yellow security light still flashes- as if there is a door open, when te doors are locked, the light shines steadly and does not turn off.

The trunk sensor is that black lip that a single wire connected to it on the trunk lock right?

But you've given me a few other things to look at- so I'll try it out this week. Thanks!

The only thing in the trunk that can cause this is the single wire connector attached to the cable going to your lock cylinder. Disconnect it. If it fixes the light, that'* your problem.

The mechanical cable breaks loose from a tiny flimsy delicate tab on the trunk lock cylinder if someone tries to tamper with the lock. Or with age, whichever comes first.

thanks willwren
I'll try that...and actually that would make sence...as before I re-progrmed the keyless entry, I used the key in the trunk on a cold day, (at Wal-mart of all places) and the alarm has not worked properly since. I'll have to try that- and try not to break all those dreaded crapy push screws for the carpet.
thanks

Do it in the garage. driverjohn just broke 4 of them removing his hood insulator in Seattle 2 days ago. And you're colder.

Just remember (at least on the 92-99) the center push pin is shorter than the rest when you put it back together.