I have a 1992 SSE Bonneville without the supper charger, mileage 186537 miles, oil pressure 60 lbs. during the summer heat while stuck in traffic (thus a good and tight engine). Temp never goes into the red.

The problem is the SES light came on after the alternator stopped functioning, the voltage on the voltmeter in the vehicle went down to about 8 volts and all the other gauges also showed abnornal low readings. Then all of a sudden all the gauges went to zero for a second, then they went all the way to their max level, then they went back to their normal levels. Since everything went back to normal, I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes, then reconnected it. The car runs well but still shows an error code 16.

I checked the alternator, by taking it apart and found that one of the brushes was about half the length of the other one. I will be ordering a set of brushes from the parts store, but in the mean time to ensure that the brushes are making good contact, I stretched the springs a little so there would be more tension pushing the brushes against the stater.

One last piece of information. The car does not have a normal battery. Instead of a lead acid battery it runs using a Nickel Cadmium battery, made in 1987, that I bought as surplus and its been starting the car for the last 3 years after being in service for about 15 years.

The battery is still good and is capable of putting out 1500 to 2000 amps when starting the car. A battery 1/4 the size in the car vaporized my wedding band when I accidently touched the terminals. Ouch !!!! I learned my lesson and take off all finger and wrist band (watch) when working on the car.

Right now the car runs great but still gives the SES message. Is there still something wrong or will the SES light eventually go out after a number of hours of normal operation?

Thanks.

Del

A Ni-CD car battery??

First, code 16?? What does that mean?

How does the car sound when its cranking over?

well the code definition is:

16 - System Voltage High/Low


have you tried pulling the negative battery cable for a couple minutes to reset the computer and see if the code comes back?

Hi and welcome.

Since we know there'* was an issue and you are working on fixing it. Let'* take a look at the voltage while we await the brushes.

Please check the voltage at the battery and back of alternator with the car running.

(Mods: Electrical please)

Thanks for replying Cheetah, Dark Shadow, Cheetah.

With the car running the voltage at the battery is 14.26 volts. The voltage at the alternator power out lead is also 14.26 volts. The error code 16 is no longer in memory (I disconnected the positive terminal overnight) but has now been replaced with an error code 34 (mass air flow sensor circut). The egine starts but tends to die when you remove your foot from the gas.

The car is equipped with one of those metal mesh air clearner. I think the mass air flow senor is plugged into the supplied tubing and is sealed with a rubber plug. Unfortunately as I was installing the plug I dropped it into the engine compartment abyss and it disappeared into another space time zone. I have never found it.

However, I did instal the sensor with zip ties and then sealed it with copper colored (resists up to 700 degree heat) silicone, not pretty but effective. I think I might have broken the seal I made with the silicone and that may be giving the error code. I have recoated the outside of the plug and will wait for it to seal properly. Will keep you informed.

Cheetah I know a Nickel Cadmium battery for a car seems strange but they perform extremely well and can last 25 to 50 years. It takes a little rewiring to instal one. The cells I got (surplus $0.75 per cell as against new cells at about $65.00 a piece - you would need 10 cells to make a car battery, I wired in 20 cells 2 banks of 10 cells connected in parallell). The cells I got are sintered plate flooded cells capable of extremely high current flow with little drop in output voltage. Another advantage is that you can discharge the cells to 0 volts leave them that way and then recharge them to full power. A lead acid battery would be killed by that kind of treatment. If the battery is overcharged, the water component of the battery is split into hydrogen and oxygen. Just add distilled water to the battery if this should happen. Lastly as the temperature drops lead acid batteries lose a lot of power. You would have to go to the artic during the winter to notice a drop in performace.

With portable tools you will notice that almost all of them are powered by sealed Nickel Cadmium batteries. The Ni-CD battery puts out so much power that it has made the portable tool industry possible.

If you want one check Ebay for Nickel Cadmium batteries. Sometimes someone is selling a used aircraft 24 volt battery, price about $50.00 but make sure the cells have not dried out. If you do get one it will be the last car battery you will ever have to purchase for that vehicle.

Thanks,

Del

Ok.. The maf sensor is dead top of your throttle body and doesn't have a rubber plug. Can you post a picture of the item you RTV'd and zip tied?

Thanks

BILL

Bill, my younger son and the family car buff tells me that you are right that the MAP is located over the throttle body right in the open and easy to change, and what I was describing is the temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the filtered air.

I took the car out for a ride and it functioned well for a time. However, in about a half an hour the SES was on again and I later found that the code was again Error Code 34.

One thing I don't understand is that about 30 minutes after the SES came on it turned off and the car ran well until the SES came on again. Could I be looking at a sensor going bad or could it be a loose connection somewhere? Do MAP slowly go bad or when they fail they fail for good? Also is the MAP sensor an expensive part?

Thanks for your help.

Del

And if it only acts up after 30 min..let it idle.. this may be an issue where the heat expands something in the sensor and that is when it fails.

Thanks Jr's3800 and BillBoast37 for catching the error. I had ordered a MAP today and it was suppossed to come in tomorror. When I read your posts I immediately phoned the auto parts store (autozone) and went over and cancelled the MAP and ordered a MAF sensor. Too bad it cost twice as much as the MAP but if this clears up the problem I will be getting away cheap.

This car has over 187,000 miles on it and although I have had to use some bubble gum and super glue at times basicly the car runs well. It get close to 25 MPG on the highway, the air conditioning works well and the car'* major systems, brakes with the exception of the ABS traction control, trans, and engine are all good. If all goes well maybe I'll be able to get 250,000 miles out it.

Will keep you informed when I change the MAF sensor. Thanks.

Del

PS The SES light keeps coming on after I have disconnected the battery. The car drive well for a time and then I feel like it has hit a bump in the road and then the SES comes on and a error code 34 is detected.