You can check the cabin air temp sensor with this:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=24


Have you verified your airmix door is moving full-travel? All the time? Use my procedure above. It works better at night without any ambient light to constrict your pupils.

Ben, my money is on an airmix actuator. They can be intermittent before they meet with catastrophic failure. Pulling battery power seems to exacerbate the problem. As Will suggested, pull the glovebox out and witness the motion of the door arm while you run the temp from max to min a few times. It should be smooth with no hesitation or jerky motion, and it should go to the maximum extent of travel in both the cool an hot directions. Another test is try to move the arm by hand (e.g. using a long, slim screwdriver). If you can move the arm by hand, your gear is split and is slipping on the shaft. There is no cure for this other than replacing the actuator motor. You can use the redneck fix until you have time and resources to replace the motor.

Sorry for not being around to help on this one Ben, but the other bozozs have pegged it. 99.99% sure it is the actuator. Stop on over so we can look at it and if it is the actuator, we can do the "redneck" fix for now and work on replacing the actuator later.

Also, until we look at it, it might help if you take it out of "AUTO" mode and just run it manually using the "temp", "mode", and "fan" speed adjustments. Set the temp to 85* max (not 90* so you don't drive the actuator arm all the way to full heat and cause slip) and it might work the majority of time. I remember when mine failed, that setting it to 90* would cause the door to be forced wide open and then it would cycle to colder air. Shutting the car off and restarting also worked quite a few times to "reset" the air door, but we need to get you fixed up as soon as possible.

Thanks for the responses, everyone. I appreciate the information. I've been working a ton lately and just got around to checking this thread after a couple days. I'll try to do the airmix test this week sometime, but if I don't get it figured out by Saturday I'll have to do it after I return from Christmas back in Iowa. I'll report back when I get a look at the airmix door.

Bob - I don't know if I'll be able to come over this week. I've been working 12-14hr days, so it limits my relaxation time at home. However, I might take you up on the offer after the new year . Perhaps we can trade labor in the same day?

I have this exact same problem. I live in Minnesota, so when you can see your breath in the car after driving 1/2 hr, I need it fixed soon. The same thing, after a battery problem, the temp light blinks, then stops after a couple of minutes. One thing, if I let the car warm up, then shut the car off, and immediatly start back up, the hot air blows, until the computer reads something and then the blinking starts, eventually stops and from the time the blinking started, blows cold air. My compressor leaked out all the freon this summer, but up until the battery problem, my heater worked awesome. something is linked to this battery problem or computer resetting???Help i'm cold!!

First off, welcome to BC amundson.

This definitely sounds like a broken/faulty airmix actuator. Here is a post that should guide you through the process of evaluating the possible problem and providing info on how to fix it. Also includes a "temporary" solution to give you heat until you fix it.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...71&highlight=A

Haven't done much posting in a while, but I have an update on this issue.


I got my transmission rebuilt about a month and a half ago, and up until then the car was still having the issue of intermittent A/C or heat with a flashing ECC display. However when I got the car back from the tranny shop the problem had magically disappeared. The ECC didn't flash and I had complete control over the temperature of air coming from the vents.

Here'* where it gets funky: A couple days ago I was doing some tuning work with Thomas Stoppenbach (PDXGTP), and we decided to swith to a stock PCM I had laying around. I disconnected the negative battery cable, swapped the KS module and the PCMs, hooked up the battery, did a quick flash to the PCM, and restarted the car. Lo and behold, the problem returned. All I touched were the battery and PCM, and I'm thinking the PCM has nothing to do with it.

What kinds of tests should I do? I'm not much with electrical, but I'm thinking the problem has to some sort of bad ground related to the negative battery cable. What would be the best ways to tell if the cable is loose and/or bad?

Also, not sure if it'* related, but the car has been idling a little oddly from time to time. It'll idle down really low and lope like a big V8... sounds like it'* about to die. It also threw a "Lean Bank 1" CEL the other day. We were thinking fuel pressure regulator, but I figured I'd add it here in case there could be a common cause.

TTT

Anyone?

That is the most bizarre thing I have ever heard of, as far as the ECC. Not really sure anyone has ever had it work again, normally, and then fail again. Certainly no precedence here, that I am aware of, that a loose negative connection caused the ECC to go wacky, but I suppose it could.

As far as the negative battery cable, wiggle everything at all connections and try to rotate clockwise/counter clockwise. If they move they are not tight. One other thing to check is to see if the terminal face on the negatave post of the battery itself has been "chewed out" by the ears on the cable.

It'* weird, isn't it? For over a month it worked fine.... no flashing, no odd behavior. I guess all I can do is wiggle some stuff, eh? I was hoping someone could point me toward a "master ground" or some other source that sounded suspect. But I guess as far as automotive electrical is concerned there'* nothing more "master" than a battery cable.

I'll give it some attention in a couple weekends and see what I can find.