If i checked the right one, the gray wire in the back of the climate control reads 0. Is the HVAC something or somewhere different? I can't find anything about it in my Chiltons or Hayes books.

The climate control is part of the HVAC system.

You say the gray wire on the back of the ECC read 0 volts with the fan speed set to full?
How about the purple wire on the blower control module?

I'm ready to set it aflame and call it a day! Got to work lastnight and the blower started fluctuating up and down again. It hasn't worked all weekend. I pull out the ECC and check the gray wire, 11.97 constant. Even when the blower turns itself off while gauge says full blast . Took the connector off the blower and it goes from 1.96 to 10.7 and back down, then 4.7 and so on. Now, as of this morning coming home, it'* working fine ! I think i found the HVAC programer or something under the pass. side dash. Vacuum lines and the same color wires that are on the back of the ECC. Could the programer be going? Kind of like a last stand? And as for a heavier coat Bill, it was 22 degrees lastnight! Jumped into a SRT-10 and stayed warm on Dodges dime.

If you removed the blower wires and it jumped up..that sounds very much like a blower motor. Have you tried a little persuasion on the blower motor casing when it doesn't want to work?

No no no. It was already going up and down and i pulled the connection to get a reading off of it. It'* not the blower! It'* in between the ECC and the blower. Is the HVAC prog. between them? And is it what i found under the dash with the vacuum lines? If so, it'* the problem.

Pin B at the blower motor connector should be purple and should read constant battery voltage +12 vdc. The speed control is a varaible function on the negative side of the blower motor pin A (black)

The HVAC programmer tells the air where to go and at what temp. Please try the tests supplied here. They are the same tests you will find in your factory service manuals. It is tough to help you, if you won't walk through the troubleshooting..

We are on your side....and trying to keep you from freezing to death. It'* too cold to rule out proper diagnostics.

Ok. Grey wire at the time read 0v. as the ECC was reading full blast (see pic.) and the blower wasn't working at all or it would go full blast intermitently(sp?). Tested the connector at the blower. 1.9v. Display still reads full blast. Then tested the connector at the blower when it was fluctuating and was getting readings from 1.7v. to 11.97v. with the display still reading full blast. Checked the grey wire at this time and it was a constant 11.97v. Also replaced the ECC with a junk yard one and it made no difference.
As for checking A and B at the blower, thats what i've been testing (connector on the blower) and niether on runs a constant 12v. Everything has been tested with a multimeter, and yes i know how to use one.
I've already posted all these readings in the this thread but there not being read before you guy'* suggest more test'*, because you keep asking for the same reading'* and tests over and over so i put them all in one. Just getting irritated with my car so i'm sorry if i come off like i don't appreciate the help, because i do. I don't have a damn clue when it comes to alot of stuff on newer cars. I'm used to carburaters(sp?) and vacuumm lines.

I suggest you purchase a factory service manual for your year and follow the diagnostic chart for this type of issue or consider bringing it to a mechanic specializing in this type of problem.

Wouldn't a normal mechanic be able to diagnose the problem? Oh well. Thanx for trying guys.