The not starting aka..fuel not being there is probably VATS related.

The wiring diagram shows that VATS would disable the starter. A lot of the lights & locks share a ground with the fuel pump. He needs to clean the ground busses again or test to see if the grounds are good. He mentioned in a PM that he removed the metal piece from the buss & cleaned it but couldn't get the individual wires out to give them a good cleaning. Should these wires come out?

I'm back. Still no luck. Poor bonni is in total failure. She died and I can't get for started. Went shopping today, come out and she wouldn't start. It sounded like she was gonna start on first try, I guess she used up the fuel that was in the line. I read some of the topics on VATS. Good possibility!! But would not explain the light and lock issue, at least I don't think so. When she wouldn't start all locks and lights are working full time. Had to pull fuse 6A to get the lights to go out. Think It'* time to send in a mechanic.


Techincal Ted this he is a she

She should have tried cleaning those grounds.

Here'* a pic that shows the location.

Knows were they are, remember I cleaned them!!!!

Did you recheck the pass side. I think that'* where the fuel pump grounds. There is also a test lead by the battery. Should have 12 volts while cranking.

I checked both sides, and they looked fine to me. I only cleaned last weekend. If that'* were the fuel pump ground is located she should be good, they were pretty clean even before I cleaned then. The drivers side was nasty, I think I have a leak somewhere near the foot well. It always seams to be damp there. Well thanks again. I'll check it out
tomorrow after work. Needs some shut eye.

Any updates?

Yeppers.
think I may have found the problem with the fuel pump. The relay, It shows signs of arching. What'* your thought on that? She'* running now, with the same relay because I can't get a relay here until Monday when the dealer is opened. So if she dies again hopefully I can get her back by hitting the relay to loosen the armature inside. I'm thinking with the arching it'* getting stuck not allowing it to close. What do you think?

Did you say earlier that you switched the relay with another identical one? That would be an easy check.

Has the double battery cable been checked thoroughly for corrosion, even down into the cable itself, and at the grounds for accessories at the fender next to battery?

The VATS would cycle after 3 minutes and allow the car to start. Mine in 98 has had a quirk when key is turned fast from off to start and turns off cranking only for 3 minutes; that'* without turning the key to crank 3 times with wrong reading on resistor chip. I think it might be ignition switch contacts down on steering column.