Yup, you heard it, I'm using spray paint to repair my side door from bad undercoating, and the previous owner'* bad parking jobs.

I went out to my local hardware store and bought some cans of the Krylon enamel black and Krylon epoxy enamel clear coat, $4 CDN a can and some plastic top sheets to cover the car up from over spray. I've tried one door so far and its starting to look pretty damn good, except, a fly flew on it and now i have to redo the who door. Horray!

One advice, super light coats!!! The paint keeps on running!

I bought this spray can holder , it does wonders! Super handy, only cost me $3!


Will have pictures up when it all dries and I peel off the plastic wraps, heres what it looks like, before my work.

I definately want to see the outcome of this project, that can holder is pretty cool.

I had one of those "can gun" handles untill it was stolen...i loved the thing!

And why would you have to redo the whole door because of a fly...couldnt you just watersand and polist the marks out?

Also:

Yes you could. I have been battling the white curse paint for 2 years now and everytime I lay new paint down, a bug gets into the paint too. Wait till it drys, lightly sand it out.

i freaking went thru 2 of those things when i painted my van.. OMG.. talk about sore hands...

house paint on a 4" brush went on way easier

Holy drippers batman! I screwed up big time!

Guess I'm gonna have to wait til tomorrow to resand and repaint, it got dark out so I headed in, to realize that it was only 6:30...

I'm gonna have to be 10x more patient on the light coats and walk away for it to dry. The problem was, I insisted it could be done in less than half an hour.

Look at it this way, you (and several of us I bet) are learning from your mistakes. Can't wait to see the finished product, though. I got'* me some touch up to do (one of these summers)

Pics would have been great too

One of the areas you have circled is on a flexible bumper cover. Did you buy some flex paint specifically for this area? My experience with regular paint is that it will flake off over time. Did you use a wax remover/paint prep solvent? My experience has been that with all of the wax and silicon on a car nowadays the paint will not adhere well and will come off over time. Light sanding is also a must.

I still have one of the can grips. They make it possible for you to "stroke" like you do with a professional gun. My experience is that without it I cannot get a good feathered end result.

Well, I don't know about how flexible it is, I've had the paint on paper, it bent and flopped back and forth without cracking, however, when I had it on the plastic top sheet, when it dried, and was moved, it started to flake everywhere like sticky black snow. I'm assuming because it wasn't able to cure on that plastic surface, where as it actually soaked into the paper and bonded there.

Anyways, back to the PROGRESS of this paint job, the side door requires some more work, I guess I learnt all my lessons from that "test door". I'm letting that door paint sit for a while til it hardens completely and then I'm gonna resand and repaint with my new knowledge of how not to let the paint run.

I went ahead to paint the driver side front fender yesterday... for the second time, the first time I did it, the sun went behind a cloud, and then the sun went down, the temperature struck 4 degrees C and the paint turned out white in the morning. Again, for the 10th time I said, "aww crap, I screwed it up." I went out to take some pictures today and I guess it turned out pretty good, except for two things, one part was a tad too wet and got scrunchy, and I let those black paint flakes get on the hood and fender line, but so far its the best I got. So, as you all demand, the pictures:

Side shot of my side door, I painted the rear door, front door was my first paint job from a few months ago with Duplicolor GM BLACK I think it was.


This is where I messed up on the back door.


The reflection of the Krylon Black Epoxy Enamel without the Clear Epoxy Enamel Coat, shiny but not as shiny without that clearcoat. Less than $5 reflection.


This is the original paint job, the expensive reflection


This is how my front fender turned out with the clearcoat, two or three layers of it on top of about 4 layers of black.


The same shot with FLASH, I guess it lacks that metallic colour that only expensive paint can acheive.


This is the expensive stuff I was talking about, original factory paint.


This is to compare my dirty hood with original paint on the left, versus the new $15 paint job. As you can see below, the factory paint has a crisp clear mirror-like reflection, compared the very shiny, but not so crisp reflection local hardware store spray bomb paint. I'm sure that orange peel can be fixed, but I guess thats something you do when have more experience and time. Notice the flakes in the crease line, I used the old plastic top sheet with old paint on it. As you can tell, I'm not very experienced.


This is comparing my new paint on the left to the old paint with Duplicolor GM Black from months ago on the right.


That'* all folks! My SPRAY BOMB PAINT JOB ADVENTURE.