My Bonneville has lived on Dauphin Island in a Salt Environment and has some rust spots. A few on the roof and others on bottom of doors. I have bought some touch up paint, clear coat & primer and plan to sand the spots - then prime - then touch up and finally - clear coat. I'm wondering how I can sand small area'* without harming the areas that have not problem nearby. Any help is appreciated. And after I've got this done what is the best wax to protect the finish.
Thanks

After you sand and wire brush the rust away, you want to use some type of rust ihibitor, the stuff has to sit on the area that was rusted and let it soak in, then you can prime and paint and so forth of you just sand off the rust chances are that it will come back, good luck there are good rust protecters out there,

It'* ok if you end up sanding a bit of the nearby good areas. Once you get rid of all the rust and start to prime and paint, you'll cover the sanded area and overlap the surrounding areas, then sand it smooth, blending it with the rest of the paint. Can you show us pics of the areas you are going to fix?

After it'* sanded and cleared, let it cure for at least a week, then just wax. I have a friend who had some small spots along his door edges. I helped him sand them out and touch them up. The rust has not come back since we did it more than 4 years ago.

I can definitely take some pictures on my digital but how do I post them on the forum.
Is there a thread on this.
Thanks

Right here

Step by step

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=66097

I want to correct a statement I made.

After the painting is done and ceared, wait a week, then sand/polish with rubbing compound. I wouldn't wax it for a few weeks. The paint will protect it fine until you do.

Hmm. I'm not a big fan of spray can paints. Yes, for convienience I'll use them on engine parts (I go through a lot of silver and black) and in the engine bay or hidden areas. But for body work, there'* no substitute for the urethane paint used on the car originally.

On a touch-up job the drill goes something like this. Block sand the rust and surrounding area to bare metal. Don't wory about sanding on areas outside the damage. In fact, the goal is to feather the sanding further away from the spot...the bigger the feathered out area, the harder it will be to spot the transition from old paint to new (The human eye gets faked out by the contours of the car and the subtle change of color isn't noticed when it'* spread out over a large area.)

Wipe the bare metal and sanded down paint clean with acetone. Do this alot to clean out any grease, oils, etc. Prime the spot with a good etching primer, block it again, wipe it down again, and again, and again, mask off to the nearest seam or panel and shoot you base and clear over that. Let it cure for a day or two, then wet sand the paint and buff it out to about 1500 grit. Like the others said, let the paint cure for a few days before doing any waxing.

On a solid color car, there'* usually no problem blending the panels in (provided the paint dealer got a good match to the actual color of paint on your car.) Though, figuring out where to mask the car off to hide the paint seams can be tricky. The roof is always a b*tch, since it'* such a large, visible area with no natural breaks in the panels to hide a paint seam. Doors are pretty easy. Use the natural breaks created by the mouldings.

I'll be doing a white '90 LE here pretty soon. I've still got a panel that got customized last year by a putz who rear-ended me, plus a little rust in the trailing edges of the rear doors to clean up.

i think that the hardest part will be getting the paint spots to blend in, i think it might also be a good idea to spray the paint on a pice of cardboard or something to make sure it is a good match to the color of your car

also, unless i missed it, what color is your car? since i know some colors are harder to blend than others.