I hope I am not violating protocol on this very helpful forum because I have another posting going just below this one. Now I have two different
issues, but if I should not post two things together like this I apologize.

I've got a new issue with my 1986 Buick Regal so I have temporarily deferred my work on the headliner in the previous posting. My
1986 baby caught a rock going down the highway last week and it smashed a gaping hole where the bumper filler once was on the right side. Thankfully this was all it took out except for a tiny chip on the windshield from the rock fragment.
I ordered a new bumper filler and, of course as I look at her I see the headlight bezels have some green discoloration on them and
I figure, "if I got to take the bumper off to fix the bumper filler, why not do the headlights too?" Well, guys, you know what'* coming next...I look at the front and the black paint is speckled with years and years of rock damage, so I figure I will paint the front too while I am at it and that would really make her look good again. The project just keeps growing. Anyway, I found the color for my black Regal at automotivetouchup.com (anybody have any experience with them?) and they state that a car such as my GM was painted using GM'* process of primer, base coat then clear coat. I don't mind so much paying the big dollars automotivetouchup.com wants for their products but what I am wondering about is their stating that I should PAINT OVER the original clear coat with primer, followed by the base coat followed by the clear coat. It seems to me that this will make the finish really thick and not meld nicely with the other parts of the car I am not painting. After all I am only going to paint the front around the grill.
I'd really appreciate you guys weighing in as to whether or not this sounds like the manner in which I should proceed? As always, thanks.
Sparks

Spot paint is not the best. You should go to PPG or Oriely'* and get 4 ounces and do it right. Do full panels etc.
You'll need to sand where necessary and use scotchbrite pad to scuff then put down your primer, color and clear coats.

Spot paint is not the best. You should go to PPG or Oriely'* and get 4 ounces and do it right. Do full panels etc.
You'll need to sand where necessary and use scotchbrite pad to scuff then put down your primer, color and clear coats. Use good reducer. Ask them for the good stuff and if you can paint you are good to go. If not get 8 ounces and practice a little on some junk metal or even smooth cardboard. It don't take long to get the flow and speed narrowed down.

I agree with carfixer007 ^^^^^^^

Primer sticks to many things, provides a good surface for paint to stick to, and doesn't look pretty.

Paint sticks better to primer than to bare metal and other stuff.

Clear makes the paint look the same as the surrounding paint that also has clear on it.

If your chip goes to the metal, you should have primer on the metal for the paint to stick to. If you have paint without clear, it will look different than the surrounding paint.

Voila'! Now you're doing all three and that'* how the ball bounces. I agree on painting entire panels. This keeps you from having splotches of different colors all over.