How do I fix my 99 SLE's spoiler? 56K welcome - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Detailing & Appearance Discuss washing, waxing and detailing information as well as interior/exterior cosmetic modifications. This includes neons, body, cosmetic wheels, etc. Even under the hood detailing.

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Old 01-12-2008, 09:17 AM   #1
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Default How do I fix my 99 SLE'* spoiler? 56K welcome

Here are pictures:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...e/P1010496.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...e/P1010495.jpg

So, I have the dealer-issued spray paint. I think it'* some number like 98006 or so. However, I've only got one can, and because it'* spray paint, I'm not too excited about it. I got for free a brand new Campbell Hausfeld spray gun, and my compressor can easily run it. There'* a filter right before the adpater for the gun, and I have lots of teflon tape. I even have a power sander and access to some more types if the one is not the right kind (reciprocating 1/3 of a standard sheet).

I'd like to take off the spoiler, sand it down, prime it preferrably with a KILZ spray bottle or two, sand between primer layers, use the compressor and CH spray gun to paint the dark cherry metallic in several coats with sanding in between, and then a few coats of clearcoat. What clearcoat should I use? I like the spray bottle American Tradition lacquer. It doesn't seem to give up, but then again, look at what happened to the stock one.

So, does anyone have a few tips for me? It would be much appreciated. My goal is to have my spoiler be the best painted part of my car.
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Old 01-12-2008, 11:25 AM   #2
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Use an automotive primer, not KILZ.

Make sure you sand down through all 'violated' layers, or the problem will come back. You may also want a plastic adhesion promoter before priming.

No more than 2 coats of color. You typically won't wet-sand this.

Clearcoat should be the same TYPE of paint as the color or you'll have problems.
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Old 01-13-2008, 09:04 PM   #3
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What should I be looking for as a sign of quality sanding? Should the spoiler have an even plastic color?
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:04 PM   #4
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Smooth to the touch with no edges showing after priming.
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:36 PM   #5
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Take it easy on the areas that don't have clear. Just scuff them enough for adhesion. The rest of the clear can be sanded pretty aggressively. I say 600 on the whole thing and there should be no problems. The majority of the spoiler should look the same, flat with no distinct edges but you will be able to tell where there was clear and where there was base only. prime this, let it dry well, then come back with 600 again for the final sand. If you go through the primer in a few spots, don't sweat it. Wipe the panel down with wax & grease remover or mineral spirits if you can't find the W&G remover(they are VERY similar). Make sure you don't have any dust or lint on the spoiler. now spray your base coat. Start with a light coat, almost dust it. Come back with a slightly heavier coat, it should be starting to cover well now. Once you feel it is covered in the base(color) well, stop. There is no added protection or benefit to spraying more base. It is actually bad to have too much base, it is just un-needed film thickness. Follow the directions on the paint can for dry time on the base color. When the base has dried sufficiently, come on with the clear. Lighter coat at first, medium second coat, and a little heavier final coat. Don't let it run just let it flow out and lay down well. Let this cure in a dust free environment for the recommended time as instructed on the paint can. When the paint has cured come back and patiently start wetsanding with 2000. Unless you are over aggressive, this will not cut through the clear but will be able to remove most defects with enough time and patience. Always use a wet-sanding block at this stage, not your fingers to back up the paper. Make sure the whole spoiler is flat(in terms of OP) and has an even gloss(or lack thereof). Hit this with the rotary buffer at about 1500 rpms with a foam cutting pad and Presta 1500(removes 1500 grit scratches, you only sanded with 2000 so your good). Follow up with milder pads and polishes. Use shop lights at this stage so you can see every swirl or mar. Perfect the polishing stage and finish off with your favorite wax, you are finished! Good luck.
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Old 01-17-2008, 03:38 AM   #6
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Wow, that was awesome. I sometimes don't get email notifications of replies to some topics, and this is one of them. Thanks for the input! I don't actually have a rotary sander, but I will pick it up if you say it'* necessary. Is this the one with the circular sandpaper pads with holes in a circular pattern in the middle?
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