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Old 01-02-2006, 05:16 PM   #11
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All right! I've been thinking about this a little, and I would definitely recommend that you look into either the new laminates (not real wood usually, but durable) or the laminated hardwoods, like BruceTM. The laminating process makes for a more stable base. You can still get real hardwoods of decent thickness this way, just more stable and easier to work for a project of this nature.

I would consider "floating" the floor like they do when putting thin flooring on concrete (see DIY installation articles for laminated wood flooring). This would help eliminate cracking caused by the metal-to-wood expansion differences and will even out the minor bumps and creases normally put in floor pans for strength.

Then you would want to finish the wood (if real wood is used) with a high quality, non-yellowing, exterior polyurethane. I would consider a thin coat on the back also to stabilize the wood before adhesion.

It sounds like a challenging, but rewarding project! Good luck!
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Old 01-02-2006, 06:17 PM   #12
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man you guys are the best I'm going to do this reall soon
thanx for all the information!!!
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Old 01-03-2006, 11:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lash
Then you would want to finish the wood (if real wood is used) with a high quality, non-yellowing, exterior polyurethane. I would consider a thin coat on the back also to stabilize the wood before adhesion.

It sounds like a challenging, but rewarding project! Good luck!
I do a fair amount of woodworking in my spare time and I have never gotten a piece of finished wood to glue up to my liking. My recommendation would be to glue it, sand it and then finish it. I would definitely put some kind of finish on the bottom (to protect from any moisture that gets underneath it). For the top side, be sure to finish it the right way, lots of thin coats with sandings in between. On the projects I want to be proud of I usually go to a grit of 600 if not higher. Once you've got everything finished, THEN install.

I'm hesitant to recommend an exterior poly for this purpose because of the high traffic. I'd expect you'd have to refinish it every other year or so. Polyurethanes create a layer on top of the surface and over time this wears down and I've seen some serious cracking and peeling when exposed to lots of moisture. For my dollar I'd use some kind of oil (I'll find one for you if you are interested in this route) that penetrates into the wood and seals off the pores. They take longer to apply than a good poly does, but I think the end result would be worth the extra time/effort.

That'* just my two cents. While I wouldn't expect the floor to be exposed to the "elements" too often, you never know when it'll rain while the roof is open or windows are down.
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:53 PM   #14
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man you guys are the best.
Could I get a step by step on some details i may need to know about.
for example type of foundation should by used. type of glue etc.
you guys are the best. I'll man you guys are the best.
Could I get a step by step on some details i may need to know about.
for example type of foundation should by used. type of glue etc.
you guys are the best. I'll post some pic'* soon as I start the project.post some pic'* soon as I start the project.
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Old 01-04-2006, 04:05 PM   #15
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I had a truck (well, Isuzu Trooper) with hardwood floors. The metal floors had rusted out, causing the drivers seat to fall through them on a left hand turn. So, since I worked construction at the time, I got some scrap hardwood flooring from a jobsite and replaced the floorboards.

With the trooper, I could use the frame as a support. Not sure how you'd pull it of in a Bonne without losing some headroom. Maybe that new laminate flooring stuff? It'* a lot thinner, but not flexible.
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Old 01-04-2006, 05:21 PM   #16
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I agree 100% with zuluhead regarding his advice. For clarification, I wasn't proposing that you finish the wood before glueing the pieces together. Just finish the back before fastening down to the floor backing.

strongsun1, have you ever done any woodworking? If not, I suggest you run down to Home Dumpo or Blowes and pick up a wood flooring book and a basic woodworking how-to book. You'll save the cost of them in mistakes not experienced.

Then, you will want to decide exactly what parts of the floor you want to be wood, remove your seats. You may want to keep the carpet and padding in for two reasons, for now. One, you will likely have to cut in the wood to your carpeting since there'* no bloody (reasonable) way you'll flloor the whole thing. Two, there may be spots that will require fill and the padding you do remove will fill the bill, plus help in sound deadening.

After you decide which areas you want to cover with wood, make cardboard templates of those areas and fit them into the spaces you've picked. These templates must be as perfect as you want the flooring to be, so take your time.

Then you should build some wood panels. Big decisions here as to choice of wood, real, wood, laminated wood, etc. For a first timer to get a decent result, you might try one of the thinner laminated hardwood flooring products offerred in your local large hardware store or builder'* supply. Maple, birch, beech and walnut are easier to finish than oak or mahagony. They are also hard and stable hardwoods.

My suggestion is to build up large square panels. Build each one bigger than the template, so that you can cut out your template patterns after the panels have been glued together and sanded.

Suggest using a thin fiber-type baker board to attach to the chassis pan and then use an industrial adhesive to attache the wood panels to that.

Most likely, you will want to use some sort of transition moulding to tie in the wood and the carpet. It can be a plastic moulding style or even wood. However wood moulding for the unusual shapes you will probably have to cover will be a super custom thing and not to be taken on lightly.

There'* LOTS more to know and pass on, but I've got to get going for now, so let me know if you've done any research (buy some books!) and get back to us.
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Old 01-05-2006, 10:55 PM   #17
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I think someone?, makes vinal flooring that looks like wood also? I think I saw it on that "I Want That" show on HGTV, I'd check their website.....that would be alright, and kinda cushy I would think....I believe they said it was pretty durable too.
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Old 01-06-2006, 04:13 AM   #18
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As an FYI, here is what the floors look like with the carpet/padding out. There are some contours you'll need to consider when doing this. The seats mount to the raised sections in the middle, so as long as you didn't do those, you'll be fine on ride height.

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Old 01-06-2006, 08:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyFloyd
As an FYI, here is what the floors look like with the carpet/padding out. There are some contours you'll need to consider when doing this. The seats mount to the raised sections in the middle, so as long as you didn't do those, you'll be fine on ride height.
Yeah, thanks for the pic, Geoff. That'* what I was talking about earlier, regarding using the leftover padding and a filler material to flatten the base and "float" the wood floor. It'* doable for sure, I hope strongsun does it so we can all see.

BTW strongsun1, where are you located?
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Old 01-06-2006, 09:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lash
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyFloyd
As an FYI, here is what the floors look like with the carpet/padding out. There are some contours you'll need to consider when doing this. The seats mount to the raised sections in the middle, so as long as you didn't do those, you'll be fine on ride height.
Yeah, thanks for the pic, Geoff. That'* what I was talking about earlier, regarding using the leftover padding and a filler material to flatten the base and "float" the wood floor. It'* doable for sure, I hope strongsun does it so we can all see.

BTW strongsun1, where are you located?
The front has even more contours. I think there'* some pics of that also... no idea where though. (Sidenote: Some have a full garage, some have a full car)
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