Freddi's Brake Caliper Painting Guide
#12
"Cleared Corners"
As a new member of the forum, I've appreciated the great ideas for detailing my 2000 SSEi. I've been planning to paint the brake calipers, so your 12-step program is very useful. I hadn't thought of waxing the car first to help with potential overspray...and a couple of other items you listed...great ideas.
Having owned 7 Bonnevilles with the 3800 engine, I can only say it'* an awesome powerplant. Two of them are now being driven by my children and are both over 200,000 miles and running strong...never a problem, except replacing the alternators a couple of times. Amazing cars!
I love my current ride, though, and want to get it looking super sharp for summer cruising. I prefer Meguiar'* wax...what does everyone else use? I've also read about "triple waxing"...anybody tried it?? I'd appreciate any other detailing details/hints/kinks that you might have.
About tires...I don't like the greasy, shiny look, but prefer the black BLACK semi-gloss or flat appearance of clean rubber...anyone discovered any secret ways to achieve it??
Thanks for your help.
Streep
Having owned 7 Bonnevilles with the 3800 engine, I can only say it'* an awesome powerplant. Two of them are now being driven by my children and are both over 200,000 miles and running strong...never a problem, except replacing the alternators a couple of times. Amazing cars!
I love my current ride, though, and want to get it looking super sharp for summer cruising. I prefer Meguiar'* wax...what does everyone else use? I've also read about "triple waxing"...anybody tried it?? I'd appreciate any other detailing details/hints/kinks that you might have.
About tires...I don't like the greasy, shiny look, but prefer the black BLACK semi-gloss or flat appearance of clean rubber...anyone discovered any secret ways to achieve it??
Thanks for your help.
Streep
#13
Very good and complete write up.
Only one comment.
I would recommend flushing the brake system before you push in your caliper pistons. If you don't, you could force dirt into your very expensive anti lock braking valve body and mess it up.
Only one comment.
I would recommend flushing the brake system before you push in your caliper pistons. If you don't, you could force dirt into your very expensive anti lock braking valve body and mess it up.
#14
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Very good and complete write up.
Only one comment.
I would recommend flushing the brake system before you push in your caliper pistons. If you don't, you could force dirt into your very expensive anti lock braking valve body and mess it up.
Only one comment.
I would recommend flushing the brake system before you push in your caliper pistons. If you don't, you could force dirt into your very expensive anti lock braking valve body and mess it up.
What dirt? How would it be introduced to the system?
I guess I go for the " don't open the system, nothing will get in it" mentality (air or dirt). Don't get me wrong, I will exchange out the fluid every other brake change, but typically avoid cracking a hose, or bleeder when possible. Am I missing something?
#15
Hmmm, Really?
What dirt? How would it be introduced to the system?
I guess I go for the " don't open the system, nothing will get in it" mentality (air or dirt). Don't get me wrong, I will exchange out the fluid every other brake change, but typically avoid cracking a hose, or bleeder when possible. Am I missing something?
What dirt? How would it be introduced to the system?
I guess I go for the " don't open the system, nothing will get in it" mentality (air or dirt). Don't get me wrong, I will exchange out the fluid every other brake change, but typically avoid cracking a hose, or bleeder when possible. Am I missing something?
That'* partly what turns that nice clean fluid from clear brown to black.
It will build up in the brake calipers. Haven't you ever taken a caliper apart?
#17
How the heck does water get in it??
When you install the fluid and it comes in contact with the air.
Whenever you open the reservoir.
That brake fluid is super absorbant to water.
As the brakes wear and the fluid is drawn into the caliper, air will have to vent into the system.
It'* a well known fact.
#18
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
How the heck does water get in it??
When you install the fluid and it comes in contact with the air.
Whenever you open the reservoir.
That brake fluid is super absorbant to water.
As the brakes wear and the fluid is drawn into the caliper, air will have to vent into the system.
It'* a well known fact.
Bullet --> <---TWM
#19
Didn't mean to be hard on ya.
Just trying to help you avoid ruining your very pricey anti lock system.
If you keep your brake fluid flushed, every 20,000 Km, you shouldn't have a problem.
Just trying to help you avoid ruining your very pricey anti lock system.
If you keep your brake fluid flushed, every 20,000 Km, you shouldn't have a problem.
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Haven't you ever taken a caliper apart?
Maybe just once. :?
I must change the fluid enough, because I don't typically find any rust on the fluid contacting portions of the caliper.
The only time I have had to use a hone, was in a wheel cylinder, and it was quite obvious that the fluid had not been changed since the car was new. (12 year old car)
My last bonneville got a change of brake fluid after each second pad change. (Equates to about 50,000 miles, or something like 4 million kilometers ) At about 150k miles, I needed to replace a hose, so pulled the caliper. It was so pretty, I didn't even change the seal.
I guess it'* good to err on the side of caution, but I have not experienced the problems you have.